The Turbo 3500 F23 swap (Page 40/80)
ericjon262 MAY 15, 11:04 AM
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[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 09-11-2022).]

ericjon262 MAY 28, 10:45 PM
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lateFormula MAY 29, 10:07 AM

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Originally posted by ericjon262:
I'm designing the new exhaust to be made of stainless weld el's, I'm planning on schedule 40, but I haven't decided on the specific alloy yet, probably 316L.



I would suggest that you look into 321 stainless for your exhaust (everything before the turbo) as 321 has better fatigue resistance due to high temp cycling. Get it here:http://www.burnsstainless.com/321sstubing.aspx
fieroguru MAY 29, 02:18 PM
Looking good!

For others who don't have access to a welder the 5/8 compression fitting with female 1/2" NPT is readily available:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/69496

Thread it over a male 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting like this:
https://www.summitracing.co...-190110-bl/overview/
ericjon262 MAY 29, 06:23 PM
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ericjon262 JUN 03, 11:34 PM
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pmbrunelle JUN 03, 11:58 PM
As some kind of a criticism/suggestion that's a little late, I would remove the paint from the caliper brackets on the clamping surfaces.

When I paint that sort of part, I mask the areas under bolt heads, etc, with round self-adhesive paper stickers from Staples.

The paint can collapse under the pressure from a bolt squeezing it. If this happens, then the bolted joint may become loose.

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ericjon262 JUN 04, 11:07 AM
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pmbrunelle JUN 04, 12:01 PM

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Originally posted by ericjon262:
it's powder coat, way tougher than paint. I'm not too worried about it, thanks for the suggestion though. I'll keep an eye on it.



Firstly, there's a decent chance that nothing will happen.

Now when I was younger and dumber, I painted the rear brake calipers of my first car (a Saturn SL2). Blissfully unaware of best practices, I spray bombed (shitty enamel that was definitely softer than powder coat) everything with impunity. The glossy red was what mattered!

A few days later, while driving home from work (a 15-mile freeway commute with traffic), I heard a "clunk" noise every time I applied the brakes. So I got off the road, and I discovered that my caliper bracket bolts had backed out about one turn. Having zero tools in the car, I finger-tightened the bolts, and continued on my way. I got home by finger re-tightening the bolts about every 3 miles...

So anyway, IF you happen to hear a clunk noise on braking, consider the loss in joint preload as a probable cause.

To say something good about the brackets, the generous concave corner radius on the raised 0.195" section is a nice detail.
ericjon262 JUN 10, 09:55 AM
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[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 09-11-2022).]