Turbo 3400, F23 build, 1985 GT (Page 4/26)
1985 Fiero GT FEB 08, 06:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

I modified a LX9 cam position sensor to work as a VSS because I kept having noise issues with the stock F23 VSS. I made a standoff to get the sensor the right distance from the wheel. If I can find pictures I'll post them for you, they're buried somewhere in my build thread.




Yeah I saw yours on the megasquirt site, how did you have the original vss wired and set up?
ericjon262 FEB 08, 06:59 PM
I don't remember how it was wired, now it's just a digital input. I had used a shielded twisted pair, not it's a shielded single conductor.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

I invited Lou Dias to trash me in my own thread, he refused. sorry. if he trashes your thread going after me. I tried.

1985 Fiero GT FEB 08, 07:13 PM

quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

I don't remember how it was wired, now it's just a digital input. I had used a shielded twisted pair, not it's a shielded single conductor.




Ok, I remembered I had a second, broken one (cracked), I put a multimeter on the two pins, and when I move metal back and forth over it, it produces since AC voltage (up to 0.7v, depending on how close the metal was and how fast I was moving it) so I assume that would indicate is a VR sensor right?
ericjon262 FEB 08, 08:29 PM
Correct, the stock sensor is a VR sensor.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

I invited Lou Dias to trash me in my own thread, he refused. sorry. if he trashes your thread going after me. I tried.

1985 Fiero GT FEB 08, 08:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

Correct, the stock sensor is a VR sensor.




Ok, it's interesting that all the other info I've read describes it as a hall effect sensor
1985 Fiero GT FEB 09, 04:40 PM
Oh and before I forget, I measured the main and rod bearing clearances with plasti-gage, they were all close to equal, and within GM spec for the LA1, I also took out 2 pistons (randomly, not side by side) to measure ring gap, they were all about 0.021-0.023", calculators tell me I want 0.021" for my bore size, so I should be good, a little larger is better than a little smaller, all cylinder walls still had honing marks, and no scratches/cracks/marks. Interestingly I noticed that the timing chain (both old and the new standard cloyes one) were maybe 1/2 to 2/3 the width of the one on my 2.8, I wonder if that's just a cost cutting design on the newer engines, or if my 2.8 had that replaced before with something wider.

For running the water lines for my air to water intercooler (3/4" silicone, I have 50ft, killer deal on rock auto was 12 cents a foot haha), along the fuel tank should be ok, right? No specific reason not to, I don't have ac, so I have extra hose running space down there.
pmbrunelle FEB 09, 07:52 PM
F23 uses a VR sensor.

I’m thinking that a 4-pin HEI module might work to convert its signal to digital, as it worked with my crankshaft sensor. It may be worth trying!

Underneath the car I think I would prefer rigid tubing; if the silicone is soft it will need to be supported a lot to avoid sagging and possibly catching on road debris.
1985 Fiero GT FEB 09, 07:59 PM

quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

F23 uses a VR sensor.

I’m thinking that a 4-pin HEI module might work to convert its signal to digital, as it worked with my crankshaft sensor. It may be worth trying!

Underneath the car I think I would prefer rigid tubing; if the silicone is soft it will need to be supported a lot to avoid sagging and possibly catching on road debris.



Yeah, that would probably be simpler than modifying in a hall effect sensor, and it's pretty stiff, being 3/4" I.D. I have the lines for my fuel cell running down there, supported front and back with zip ties to near objects, center by the fuel tank bracket, and the middle of the empty spaces between the front/rear and center bracket by the AC hose support brackets, I have no issues with sagging, and adding more hoses, all zip ties tightly in a bundle will increase the stiffness of the bunch.

I'm not running them along side the coolant pipes (don't want to heat them up unnecessarily) so the only other option I see is running them through the interior (under center console), that seems like more trouble than it's worth though.
1985 Fiero GT FEB 10, 08:49 PM
Wheels! I will be looking for different wheels/tires come spring/early summer, and it is proving quite difficult haha, I'm not so keen on "regular" looking wheels, 5 spoke, etc. I love the Hi-tech wheels, and other similar silver saw blade/slanted styled wheels. I think probably 17" wheels will be good for me, although if I find a 16" set that looks good, I'd think about it, less likely 18" but maybe, these can be OEM wheels, or aftermarket, preferably $1000 or less for the set.

I'd want 255 rear tires and 215 front tires, 8.5" wide rims rear, 7" wide front, or something in that ratio (9" and 7.5").

Another option if it fit or was available, 275 rear tires and 225 front tires, probably 9-9.5" rear, 7-7.5" front.

I want the wheel wells to be filled out more, but I don't want the skinny rubber band tire look that I think 18s will be.

I'll be doing coilovers, and I don't have to be confined to 5x100, if a set can be found to use 5x115, or 5x4.75 rear, I can do that in the rear with the u body minivan knuckles, and Corvette or other hubs, front I can use the Camaro/Corvair 5x4.75 hubs, or redrill them to a smaller size, the plan is 12" c4 brakes all around, nothing set in stone yet, all will revolve around the wheels haha, it's hard to find matching looking staggered wheels.
ericjon262 FEB 12, 12:24 AM
you're working on alot of modifications to your car all at once already, from my experience, I would try to narrow your focus to the engine/transmission swap, then work on other things once the car runs and drives again, the snowball can very quickly derail your build and then you end up with a 10 year old build that's barely been driven (like mine).

Good luck

-Eric

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

I invited Lou Dias to trash me in my own thread, he refused. sorry. if he trashes your thread going after me. I tried.