No Lights? (Page 4/4) 87GT3800SC5SPD APR 29, 12:52 PM quote Originally posted by olejoedad: That's a very rare occurrence. If there is continuity, current can flow. How do you think a continuity test works? If a 9 volt meter can show continuity, you can bet that 12 volts will flow. Another way to test would be to probe both sides of the fuse while still in the panel, but that's a lot more difficult to perform. Rare, but real. What happens is that the fuse breaks under load. When it cools, contact is made, but then under load separates again. In my example, the fan would try to turn, but instantly stop because the current created heat that bends the fuse element. It is the same way a bimetal turn signal switch works; making contact to illuminate the light and bending to disconnect and reconnecting when cooled, repeating until the switch is turned off. When this happens with a fuse, it is referred to as a "hanging fuse". When the continuity check is made , the fuse is cool, using a low voltage and without a load. This can result in a reading of a fuse having continuity, but doesn't test under working load. Testing fuses in the panel, probing for working voltage on both sides of the fuse while under load, as you suggest, is the best way to avoid being misled by the rare hanging fuse condition. This method will also verify that the wiring from the power source is good and if the power is getting through the fuse under load. olejoedad APR 29, 01:42 PM Good explanation. Makes sense, I'm fortunate to have never encountered that. 87GT3800SC5SPD APR 29, 04:42 PM quote Originally posted by olejoedad: Good explanation. Makes sense, I'm fortunate to have never encountered that. I had avoided it for a long time too. It's the simplest things that seem to cause the most frustration. Cailibird APR 30, 12:33 AM Odd thing is that it genuinely was the first thing I checked. I went through everything with a volt meter and with the car on. I also double checked When I first did all of it both sides worked, so I don't know how it ended up like that... Either way, they work now. But I truly do appreciate how helpful you've been. Despite my lack of knowledge with cars. You have no clue how much your help means to me. Thank you olejoedad APR 30, 09:13 AM quote Originally posted by Cailibird: Odd thing is that it genuinely was the first thing I checked. I went through everything with a volt meter and with the car on. I also double checked When I first did all of it both sides worked, so I don't know how it ended up like that... Either way, they work now. But I truly do appreciate how helpful you've been. Despite my lack of knowledge with cars. You have no clue how much your help means to me. Thank you You are very welcome. It's frustrating to figure out problems when you're just learning about cars. We are always here to help, no matter how difficult the problem. theogre APR 30, 09:51 AM ⚠️ Warning: Only buy known brands of fuses like Bussmann, Littelfuse, etc. While big brand likely cost < a penny to several pennies to make & package most car fuses, many others still make way cheap fuses that fail to meet any safety standards & fail to blow when needed or blow way easier. ATC like Fiero uses, ATM many new cars uses & related "Blade" & other plastic fuses can fail like 87GT3800SC5SPD said or just fail as temp changes or vibration so may fail in 1 sec & pass the next sec. The plastic can hind tiny fractures/defects in the metal section & unless fuse carries enough Amps, often does not "cook" the part. IOW Cracked 20a Fuse won't cook running a few light bulbs, more so because 100% resistive load not inductive load like a blower/fan motor. Part of why is many are 1 piece stamp metal then plastic is injection molded or press on the metal then fuse section cracks for whatever reason but plastic holds the parts tight. ATC & some others allow testing without pulling them. Is why there are many "testers" w/ 2 "pins" to get at the top of fuse & "light" is On when across a blown fuse. But this often fails to Light when have above happens. Bulb Grounds isn't just the wire to the socket. Bulb itself or socket can be bad have same results of bad wire ground. Example: Any "Bayonet" sockets often have iffy connect w/ the base of bulb, more so w/ GM sockets in the back of Fiero because tiny ground "ears" get bent or other damage easily. Again, see cave light bulb & sneak path pages. NAPA & some others sell 2057 etc in 10 packs that's way cheaper then 2 packs sold everywhere. I would replace all front & rear park/turn/brake bulbs as part of fixing this problem to stop guessing that 1 or more bulbs have problems. Do Not remove the bulb grease & add a bit more if needed. "Dirty" bulb grease is just fine because only keep water out unless super bad & dirt make bulb hard to replace. Often the "Best Deal" on fuses are multi packs w/ several common values w/ or w/o a tester/puller like said above. If you think you need 2 values to replace, the "kits" get way cheaper then buying 2 to several single value pack.