[This message has been edited by mender (edited 05-25-2020).]

[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 05-26-2020).]

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 05-26-2020).]

Here's a picture of my bump steer eliminator on the right side of my '87 Chumpcar Fiero with the A-body spindles, hubs and Fiero struts. Rear link puts the outer pivot in the same plane as the lower ball joint and makes for quick toe adjustment. I used a longer bolt through the inner control arm bushing (Lemforder monoball now) to hold the inner heim on the toe link.

If this is used with the stock rubber bushings, the outer wheel will toe in under the cornering forces because of the solid rear link and the rubber control arm bushings. That also occurs with the stock toe link and that deflection might be what most people are feeling as bumpsteer. Any deflection or slop in the bushings will result in toe-out during braking, just before switching to toe-in when in the corner so it can make the rear move around a fair bit on corner entry. That seems to be largely taken care of with poly bushings, so I think that should be a first step as has been mentioned by several people.


Here's a trial fit of the left side on the bench. I added a tab that bolts to the part of the spindle that sticks down onto the square tubing for strength.

Rear brakes are 313 mm front rotors off a 2006? Jetta drilled for a 5 x 115 bolt pattern, with C4 Corvette HD front calipers. I don't need any more brake than that on the rear even for racing, no ducting so far and they're good.

[This message has been edited by mender (edited 05-27-2020).]