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| Coolant coming out of exhaust pipes... (Page 4/4) |
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 23, 04:00 AM
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There are two obvious places where there is a problem with the vacuum lines: the elbow that connects the vacuum line to the intake plenum was completely rotted away and the line coming out of the EGR valve wasn't connecting to anything.
Since it's nearly impossible to get the elbow here, I made my own. Haven't tested it yet but will do so today. As for connecting the hose coming out of the EGR Valve, it should be connected to a steel pipe on the firewall, but... there's no steel pipe on the firewall in my car. So I'll jack the car up and see if it was routed differently.
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 23, 05:21 AM
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My DIY elbow for the intake plenum works like a charm. Got rid of the high idle as well. It now idles (cold) around 900-1000 RPM. Only a few small items left. I'll start new threads for those.
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fierofool
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MAY 23, 08:31 AM
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The hose coming from the EGR valve runs underneath the manifold and goes to the EGR solenoid. The hose from the forward end of the EGR solenoid is the one that goes to the metal hose on the firewall. On the other side, that metal line transitions back to a rubber hose that connects to the air filter canister on the filtered side of the filter.
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Cliff Pennock
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MAY 23, 10:05 AM
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Yes sorry, was talking about the solenoid all along. 
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Cliff Pennock
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JUN 15, 04:06 PM
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Just wanted to give an update. I have had no coolant leaks whatsoever so I'm guessing the water that I saw was water collected in the exhaust during the 9-12 months it had been sitting still. The engine is running great, and I really, really enjoy driving her again!
I do have a warped brake disc I think, so not sure what to do about that.
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fierosound
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JUN 15, 06:47 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
Just wanted to give an update. I have had no coolant leaks whatsoever so I'm guessing the water that I saw was water collected in the exhaust during the 9-12 months it had been sitting still. The engine is running great, and I really, really enjoy driving her again!
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Mike in Sydney
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JUN 15, 08:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
Just wanted to give an update. I have had no coolant leaks whatsoever so I'm guessing the water that I saw was water collected in the exhaust during the 9-12 months it had been sitting still. The engine is running great, and I really, really enjoy driving her again!
I do have a warped brake disc I think, so not sure what to do about that. |
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Great news! Glad you're on the road again. Depending on the condition / thickness of your existing disks, you may be able to have the warp machined out. A good brake shop should be able to assess the possibility for you. I've had it (assessed) done before with the disks on the car. (But they were pretty bad!)
Good luck & happy ridin'![This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 06-15-2020).]
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Spoon
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JUN 15, 09:36 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:
Just wanted to give an update. I have had no coolant leaks whatsoever so I'm guessing the water that I saw was water collected in the exhaust during the 9-12 months it had been sitting still. The engine is running great, and I really, really enjoy driving her again!
I do have a warped brake disc I think, so not sure what to do about that. |
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Don't mistake a warped brake disc for a possible stuck caliper especially after sitting for a year. Easy test... no tools required. Drive car using brake as much as you can then pull over and apply palm of hand on center of each wheel. All should feel about the same temperature. If not you found your stuck caliper, front or rear.
Plan "B". Front only. Drive vehicle on straight road at normal speed. Hold steering wheel loose in hand and give brake pedal a soft jab. Car & steering wheel should remain straight. If steering wheel goes right you probably have stuck left caliper. Same logic applies if pull is to the other side.
If you do have a warped rotor it can be machined unless its been done before and has reached it's minimum thickness. Ways to avoid warping a rotor.. example. your doing 60 mph and you have to apply the brake immediately for a panic stop. The rotors are cooking and while your sitting there with foot on brake the rotor is cooling down except for the area where the pad is against the rotor. You take off and the next brake application you notice a vibration at the front brakes.
A visual inspection may even reveal the impression of the pad on the rotor where it was frying. In those situations I try to keep my foot off the brake after a panic stop so the rotors can cool evenly.
Others may chime in later with useful opinions or contradictions. Drive safe.
Spoon
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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
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