What do I need for replacing a water pump? (Page 4/8)
Cliff Pennock MAY 07, 05:11 AM
Ok, next step is to drain the coolant. Again, this is a side-of-the-road job so what would be the best way to do it? I know I can (try to) remove the drain plug on the passenger side coolant pipe, but I'm guessing that will start a 14 quart flow of coolant coming out that I won't be able to pause - and I don't have a 14 quart pan...

Perhaps syphon off as much as possible using a hose stuck into the thermostat housing? Hopefully that will get it below the level of the water pump? But that wouldn't get all coolant out. And since I'm pretty sure most coolant is just goo, I want to get all out.

Or drain from the radiator petcock? Will that get enough coolant out to at least replace the waterpump?
Dennis LaGrua MAY 07, 07:12 AM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

Or drain from the radiator petcock? Will that get enough coolant out to at least replace the waterpump?



That will work for replacing the pump but not to drain the entire system. The plugs on the coolant tubes will help get the last bit of coolant drained Or you could just jack up the rear of the car a few inches, take off the thermostat housing cap, pull the thermostat and just drain from the radiator petcock in the front. That should drain most of the coolant in the system out. When refilling make sure to follow the proper refill procedure.

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css9450 MAY 07, 07:52 AM
I agree with the above. The coolant doesn't need to be drained 100%. I suppose if you drain out a quarter or a third of it, would be enough.
Cliff Pennock MAY 07, 11:46 AM
I just got a 2m hose to siphon the coolant from the radiator. But when I wanted to do that, it turned out the radiator was completely empty already...

So I just unbolted the water pump and only at the last bolt very little coolant came out, maybe 200ml or so. Also turned out bolt #8 was sheared off. I can't remember if I ever had the water pump replaced but not in the last 15 years or so. So that bolt must have been sheared off for at least that long. It wasn't leaking from that spot so I think I'll leave the (remaining part of the) bolt where it is.

Getting the bolts out was a b*tch. Not because I couldn't get them out but simply because some took almost 10 minutes of ratcheting! When all the bolts were out, the water pump came loose quite easily. I just used a large screwdriver in the notch between the water pump and the timing cover and pried it loose. It took no force/effort at all.

The old water pump had a broken bearing. I could move the pulley quite a bit.
Cliff Pennock MAY 07, 11:52 AM
BTW, is it okay to leave the waterpump off for a couple of days? I won't have time to work on it until at least saturday.
Dennis LaGrua MAY 07, 12:08 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

BTW, is it okay to leave the waterpump off for a couple of days? I won't have time to work on it until at least saturday.



Shouldn't hurt anything
Cliff Pennock MAY 08, 09:34 AM
What's the best way to get all the gunk out of the bolt holes in the timing cover? Just use air? Or spray some WD40 in them? Or will that react with the anti-seize?
Patrick MAY 08, 03:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock:

What's the best way to get all the gunk out of the bolt holes in the timing cover?



I don't know if it's the "best" way, but I normally use a tap to clean out gunked-up and/or corroded threads on whatever I'm working on.
creaky78 MAY 08, 04:25 PM
I run a bottom tap into the holes, spray carb cleaner in to flush out the crud, blow the holes with compressed air and clean up the mess. Wear a face shield.

[This message has been edited by creaky78 (edited 05-09-2020).]

Cliff Pennock MAY 10, 04:33 AM
Won't using a tap cram all dirt in the hole?