HANDBRAKE NOT GOOD ENOUGH FOR TEST (Page 4/5)
Darthscooby1001 DEC 12, 03:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:


Have you checked to make sure your calipers are assembled correctly? That is, that rotating the arm the direction the cable pulls it results in the brake actually applying. This should be done on BOTH calipers.
Remanufactured calipers are sometimes assembled with the wrong parts, meaning that the mechanical components are "backwards" and pulling the cable actually releases the brake.



I tested the calipers before I installed them. They worked correctly and I adjusted them once on the car. I am confident they work as designed.

The cable could be tighten a little more
theogre DEC 12, 06:23 PM
Is good that hyrdo SB is working now.
If you apply P-brakes as above pulling lever under 9 clicks... everything should be "good..."

Is possible the tester is not following push pedal then pull lever then release pedal. In that case, test likely will always fail.
Best if you push the pedal while engine running. Booster check valve etc might leak and doesn't boost right after seconds of engine shutdown. Is only good for 1 to 3 pedal pushes normally after shutdown.

Cable tighter maybe to apply but likely won't help holding.

Note:
Caliper Levers Should Be Able To Return To Caliper Stops When P-brakes Is Off. Force there by Lever Springs. IOW They should be same condition every time at rest. This is so to get proper pad clearance.
Pads Need some clearance or will wear them out fast or a lot worse. Might not see much w/ most calipers but is there.

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

Step 7... Just resting at the stops during the adjustment very likely is to allow parts to "stretch" a little right after.

Note that only in 87 Fiero FSM corrects most of rear brake sections. Before is copy/past from another FSM from another model w/ images and more errors.

Is a pain but pull seat and trim out to access the lever.
Clean it carefully so all rust and dirt is out. Use Brake Cleaner if needed and let the thing dry out.
Then lube moving parts/pivots w/ Dry Teflon spray or a bit of Dry Graphite for locks. Spray the main pivot then spray again so main pivot get enough. Watch graphite or can go everywhere.
(Make sure you shake the can each time right before you spray. In takes seconds or 1 - 2 minutes to start separating in the can. )

Main pivot takes a lot of load and can bind up steeling driver's effort to apply.
Don't lube the cable itself.

If has rusty lever... many would use oil etc... Problem is any wet lube holds crap getting to the lever. A lot of that falls into the area just because of the location. Try removing big rust then use something to convert rust but dry after.

What brake pads for rear?
Might be pad formula causing problems. "Race" and "performance" pads often causes problem for street cars because never gets high heat to work right.
Darthscooby1001 DEC 13, 08:18 AM
WTF! I have just received a reply from an email I sent yesterday to the TUV Nord (MOT Testers/Vehicle Inspectors) regarding my handbrake issue. My handbrake is currently at 19% yet the garage said it won't pass a test. The reply I received was "15% or more for cars older than 91 is a pass". FFS, I could have had the car on the road long ago , before the snow which has just started here grrrrrr

I will of course update this thread once I have a pass certificate.
olejoedad DEC 13, 08:37 AM
I think the Ogre may have hit on something.
Make sure the tech is stepping on the brakes when he applies the parking brake.
olejoedad DEC 13, 08:41 AM
Thats great news!
PK DEC 13, 12:33 PM
That's great news. I was confident you would find a way... But it seems it was already fine!!
Gall757 DEC 13, 12:50 PM


175 Lbs. foot pressure on the pedal is a LOT!

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 12-13-2019).]

olejoedad DEC 13, 01:56 PM
Not really, about twice as much as it takes for a 175 lb person to stand up.
theogre DEC 13, 08:38 PM

quote
Originally posted by Darthscooby1001:
WTF! I have just received a reply from an email I sent yesterday to the TUV Nord (MOT Testers/Vehicle Inspectors) regarding my handbrake issue. My handbrake is currently at 19% yet the garage said it won't pass a test. The reply I received was "15% or more for cars older than 91 is a pass". FFS, I could have had the car on the road long ago , before the snow which has just started here grrrrrr

That's funny. Be glad is pre 91... If you read above again... US/Canada rules make PB rules Weaker in 96 model year and later. Many vehicle made for those markets can has bare minimum that just passes 20% test. Fiero and other had to pass 30% grade test.

IOW Brand New cars can be legal to sell in them may not pass EU and other markets w/ tougher rules. If US/Canada cars made for export... many have a lot of mod at the factory so better brakes won't be only thing. Body and Electrical are often different in several ways too to fit EU Tag and Lights etc.

I guess somewhere is a chart or math for comparing % grade to a roller test % but can't find one right now. It would be interest to know.


quote
Originally posted by Gall757:
175 Lbs. foot pressure on the pedal is a LOT!

Maybe for some but is only really a "Standard" for adjust PB often after other brake work is done. Is also why you do SB 3x then PB 3x so can "bed in" new cables if just installed them.
Ignoring rear brake issues is this system is "famous" for now... You want to know that rear calipers self adjust completely before you pull the lever. That is harder w/o driving during a job.

You be surprise how much force you and many others easy push down that pedal in a "Panic Stop." Many can generate more then 175 lb just w/ one foot.

For many using PB on Fiero and some others using same directions should apply w/ engine running to get max boost from the Booster for you to have little effort. Vacuum Booster can have above issues but Hydro and Electric PB can have issues after Engine shutdown too. Hydro PB is run by PS oil pump and maybe a small hidden accumulator.

Other cars simply don't need to push the pedal like Rotor/drum rears. Rotor/Drum setups are Completely separate systems. All Disk for SB w/ a inner drum for PB. (Larger vehicle have a PB somewhere else. Often at Trans end of the Drive Shaft.)
Yet Other you make problems for PB even try to push the pedal while you apply PB.
Darthscooby1001 DEC 18, 09:04 AM
Now I am angry! Despite informing the TÜV (MOT) Inspector of the correct procedure for testing a Fiero’s E-brake, he would not listen and insisted on doing a rolling stop with a computer pad sitting in the car! Again, I explained that the handbrake or E-Brake is not designed to stop the car whilst moving but he didn’t care. Week 9 and still no certificate and no idea what to do now