'87 2.5L valve cover replacement (Page 4/4)
theogre JAN 30, 03:33 PM
Often this test is bogus.
Many vac operated OE EGR valves does not test by holding a vacuum or use a hand vac pump w/ engine off or at idle. They need exhaust pressure at same time to work.
Most Aftermarket replacements can test this way but not all.
And you can't tell just looking. Many PN don't tell when EGR is Positive or Negative exhaust pressure type valve.

Avoid Universal EGR or if you must install correctly. See my Cave, Emissions
waynrayn JAN 30, 04:02 PM
Hi Ogre:

Thank you very much, I will read your section on emissions in the Cave tonight.

Most of my above work is done, except for the EGR.

I have also decided to replace the transmission side cover gasket, as it definitely seems to be leaking. It looks to be part #54301 at the Fiero Store.

Archived comments say to replace the TCC solenoid and pressure switch as well, but I think this is for the V6, and I have a 2.5L.

When replacing the transmission side cover gasket on the 2.5L, is there anything else which should be replaced at the same time?
theogre JAN 30, 04:39 PM
TCC switch problem happens to many older auto trans not just V6.
Use ACDELCO 8689901 not TFS and other "universal" solenoids. Have all wiring except 3rd gear switch.

Is a big pain because 87 duke have the huge bracket over the left cover. make sure the trans won't move when you remove that bracket or you can break other things.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-30-2019).]

waynrayn JAN 31, 01:30 AM
Hi Ogre:

Thanks for your suggestions. I have gone ahead and ordered the ACDELCO 8689901. I was able to obtain the side cover gasket (Fel-Pro) locally.

I have some time until the solenoid arrives, so I'll continue working on the EGR and cleaning the intake. I'll also read your notes on emissions in the Cave.

I'll check archives to study removal of the trans side cover.

Best regards,

~W~
waynrayn JAN 31, 09:10 PM
May I ask please:

1) Many archived comments suggest replacing the 3rd gear pressure switch as well. The suggested part number is GM Part #8643710. However, when I locate this, typically on Amazon (good price for Canada), it indicates this part is incompatible:



The Fiero Store switch looks similar, and does not differentiate between 2.8 and 2.5. Mine is 2.5. Am I okay to ignore this warning?

2) Ogre commented that I should support the trans prior to removing the big bracket. Is this best done from above, or below? Any suggestions to make this easier?

Thanks very much,

~W~
waynrayn FEB 17, 08:55 PM
As Ogre said, the end bracket of the tranny has been very difficult to get off. I have it completely loosened, the tranny is supported underneath. But the inlet/outlet tubes for transmission fluid circulation are in the way. There doesn't seem to be any option but to remove them. I don't think this is a problem, and plan to twist them out with the black hexagonal collar (not the brass).

When replacing them, after cleaning would it be a good idea to use some sort of thread sealant or teflon tape, to keep them from leaking?

[This message has been edited by waynrayn (edited 02-17-2019).]

theogre FEB 18, 12:01 AM
You don't remove big nut on hose tubes.

You need 2 wrenches same as most flare fittings but here likely can use any close end wrenches.

Flare fittings do not use any sealers.

But if you remove the big nut then little need some screwing in the trans because think is NPT thread and most will leak w/o it.
Light coat of Paint on white no dry pipe sealer should work.
waynrayn FEB 18, 12:54 AM
Hi Ogre:

Thank you very much, very useful as usual.

Regards,

Wayne
waynrayn MAR 25, 08:00 PM
An update: I have successfully replaced my valve cover and gasket, both side and bottom gaskets on the transmission, and also the TCC solenoid and pressure switch. Everything is re-assembled.

Along the way, I also replaced the EGR valve, and thew in the PCV valve as well.

It took time to order things in, as I decided to replace them.

I am pleased with the gaskets, which do not appear to be leaking at all.

However, I do have one area leaking, which is the transmission inlet and outlet nozzles:



I was surprised at this, because after cleaning them, I used some pipe joint compound on the threads. I snugged them in by hand first, then tightened a bit more till they were firm. I did not expect this to leak.

Apparently either my tightening was not enough- I couldn't find any torque spec- or the pipe joint compound is not compatible. It is not auto compound, although it is rated for heat and pressure (PTFE).

Could anyone suggest how to seal the threads better? I did not loosen the large brass nuts behind, only the nozzle threads, when I took them off to remove the support bracket.

Also, is it just me, or is the trans dipstick hard to read? Every time I try to see the fluid level, the side with markings is always dry, and the backside is wet. I've tried reversing the dipstick when I insert, but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I never seem to get a clear indication of level, like I can with the oil dipstick. I know however that I have put in at least the 8 pints or so required.

Thanks,

~W~