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| My 1988 LFX F40 build. (Page 4/68) |
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Daryl M
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JAN 20, 02:46 PM
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I just removed and modified the variable displacement control servo, so now my A/C compressor should be no longer variable.
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Daryl M
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JAN 20, 06:11 PM
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Daryl M
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JAN 22, 03:05 PM
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Fitting brake mods today.
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Daryl M
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JAN 22, 03:23 PM
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Daryl M
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JAN 22, 03:39 PM
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I set up this up compensating for proper ride height just to look at axle angles and such. Anyone see anything I should look at? This is the first swap I've done so don't be shy.
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Will
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JAN 22, 05:59 PM
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What axles are you using again?
If the combo hasn't been tried before, you may want to cycle the suspension through its full range of motion to make sure you don't run out of inner CV joint plunge depth... in either direction.
Although that will be difficult to verify without the upper strut attachment in place.[This message has been edited by Will (edited 01-22-2019).]
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Daryl M
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JAN 22, 06:25 PM
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Will, already checked for that. Kept the hub face perpendicular to the floor. Moved through the range of motion without moving too far in or out. I think I am OK there, but thanks for the suggestion. That would be a problem if missed.
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fieroguru
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JAN 22, 06:33 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
What axles are you using again?
If the combo hasn't been tried before, you may want to cycle the suspension through its full range of motion to make sure you don't run out of inner CV joint plunge depth... in either direction.
Although that will be difficult to verify without the upper strut attachment in place.
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Even if the axle setup has been used before, placement of transmission could be different, so it is always good to cycle and verify no binding or over extension. Ideally I like to do this with the tripot boots removed. To do this, install the drivetrain with the suspension, but leave the springs off the struts. Then you can raise and lower the suspension while turning the wheel bearing by hand.
Here is a sample picture of verifying this on the driver side.
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pmbrunelle
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JAN 22, 08:07 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Will:
Although that will be difficult to verify without the upper strut attachment in place.
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Maybe Daryl needs to put the engine + cradle into the car to perform this verification.
I as progress in my own engine build (not even a swap), I'm arriving at the conclusion that I will need to temporarily install and then remove the engine + cradle a few times, just to take measurements and see how things are fitting.
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Rickady88GT
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JAN 22, 09:52 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
Maybe Daryl needs to put the engine + cradle into the car to perform this verification.
I as progress in my own engine build (not even a swap), I'm arriving at the conclusion that I will need to temporarily install and then remove the engine + cradle a few times, just to take measurements and see how things are fitting. |
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This is true. There is no way you could get an accurate measurement on the axle length/tolerance. As has been said, take the springs off of the struts and install the drive train and entire suspension. Then lift the suspension up all the way to the bump stop and turn the wheel hub the entire time as you lift the suspension. I used a floor jack and from full droop to bump stop, check many times that no binding grinding or (in the case of a short axle) make sure it does not fall out of the tripot. Do this several times on each side. And it is great advice to have the boots off aswell.
My engine swaps went in and out easily a dozen times checking for this or that.
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