Car is running LEAN! Good fuel pressure (Page 4/4)
edfiero NOV 07, 02:15 PM

quote
Originally posted by gmctyphoon1992:

Just took the car around the block this is the RAW data from the last 13 pulses or 20 seconds of this drive including stopping and backing into my garage





I've never used WinALDL before, perhaps there is a conversion happening that I don't understand, but these numbers look strange.
Why does RPM show 42,43,44,etc ?? 420, 430, seems too low, and 4200 would be much too high for backing into your garage.
What does MALFLG2 indicate? Seems this is the Malfucnction Flag / Check engine indicator. Is there a code set?
Why doesn't the TPS value change?? You indicated driving and stoping, surely this should be changing.
gmctyphoon1992 NOV 07, 03:05 PM
yes there is a code set I have to reset the ecm thankyou for pointing that out. the code that was set was code 42 low pressure MAP sensor because I unplugged it in earlier diagnosis TPS is proven good no dropouts I checked 3 times slowly and drove around watching the TPS as well.

[This message has been edited by gmctyphoon1992 (edited 11-07-2016).]

Joseph Upson NOV 07, 03:24 PM

quote
Originally posted by gmctyphoon1992:
The car seems to run at the right mixure in the short term when im driving my INT is in the 128 range its when I am at idle is when the INT number increase and stay around 150. The BLM however does the opposite it sits at 133 at idle and increases to as much as 140 when driving.

I also notice with the ALDL cable is connected and watching sensor values that when I start the car somewhat cold and let it sit running, before the car starts to use the 02 sensor and change the INT values the car runs rough and the idle is all over the place and after about 30 seconds or so the INT values increase and the car smooths out dramatically and the idle becomes constant.

The car also has hard starts when cold usually 2 turns of the key to get started it kind of slowly rumbles up in RPMs to idle. When the car is warm it usually starts right away.



It's definitely lean on startup with BLM and INT readings in that range. You need to adjust the idle fuel table if you have one and the Base fuel table. You also should seriously consider switching to TunerproRT because it has a cell follower, a yellow box that highlights the particular cell the engine is running in on the particular table you are viewing for more accurate table changes.

Here is a link that can guide you on making changes to the fuel table; http://carprogrammer.com/Z2...njection%20Works.htm

You may also want to consider making a single global change by manipulating the base pulse width by telling the ECM you have slightly smaller injectors than you really do which should in theory increase your base pulse width throughout.

If your spark advance is too high at idle that can also cause the idle to hunt as well as affect the air fuel ratio seen by the ECM. Then there's fuel injector latency where some larger injectors may have a slight delay on opening relative to the ones they are replacing and still end up not delivering enough fuel at idle without any changes to control values.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 11-07-2016).]

gmctyphoon1992 NOV 07, 07:01 PM
Literally just came across a huge crack in my EGR solenoid could this be a possible cause of my problems? The rubber hose doesn't look to good either.
gmctyphoon1992 NOV 07, 07:39 PM
Also just found this anyone know where to get another one these connectors?
2.5 NOV 08, 12:30 PM

quote
Originally posted by gmctyphoon1992:

Also just found this anyone know where to get another one these connectors?




Is it just a vacuum splitter? if so you could make one out of T or Y fittings s and vacuum lines.

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 11-08-2016).]

gmctyphoon1992 NOV 08, 08:22 PM

quote
Originally posted by 2.5:


Is it just a vacuum splitter? if so you could make one out of T or Y fittings s and vacuum lines.




yeah I just bought rubber hose and clamped it over each vacuum line. I pulled the EGR solenoid checked and cleaned the solenoid and fixed the crack replaced all the rubber lines on the solenoid and the cruise control servo, cleaned and checked the cruise control can.

although aha I did find alittle wetness at the bottom of the map sensor fitting when I took it of to fix the other vacuum lines.

so I did two leak down tests both showed a 44 psi hold with key on engine off now?? both also showed a 20 psi drop in about 5 minutes time so I am assuming bad fuel pressure regulator ?

[This message has been edited by gmctyphoon1992 (edited 11-09-2016).]

stickpony NOV 27, 10:06 PM

quote
Originally posted by gmctyphoon1992:


yeah I just bought rubber hose and clamped it over each vacuum line. I pulled the EGR solenoid checked and cleaned the solenoid and fixed the crack replaced all the rubber lines on the solenoid and the cruise control servo, cleaned and checked the cruise control can.

although aha I did find alittle wetness at the bottom of the map sensor fitting when I took it of to fix the other vacuum lines.

so I did two leak down tests both showed a 44 psi hold with key on engine off now?? both also showed a 20 psi drop in about 5 minutes time so I am assuming bad fuel pressure regulator ?


f

man, i really think you are all over the place.. go back to the original work you did...

what prompted you to replace the EGR system in the first place? i it was running fine before, and then the poor idle and hesitation came after changing the EGR tube and valve, then the new tube and valve is very likely your issue, or rather something that you unhooked to remove the EGR stuff... the symptoms you have sound like you have a huge vacuum leak.
XxdjxX89 JUN 16, 10:40 AM
Did you ever figure out the issue ? Was the car ever fixed ?