Thermoquiet pads heat sensitivity (Page 4/4)
cvxjet JUL 20, 10:51 PM
I am using TQ pads and they work fine- I don't race or anything but do go out and carve canyons sometimes. I must say tho that I park the car inside and rarely drive in the rain.

As far as the front locking and the rears not doing their job, I converted my 85 to an 88 subframe/suspension/brakes, then converted the front to 88 calipers with 12" Vette rotors...At first it locked the fronts without touching the rears- I then started messing with the prop' valve; I at first converted to an 87-88 prop valve plunger, and the SOFT spring (I don't remember the year) still front biased, so then, after much smoke out of my ears, I installed the STIFFER spring with that 87-88 plunger....Now it stops well and if I am on slightly slippery surface and try, I can lock up all tires. (I don't try on good surface- don't want to flat-spot the tires)

NOTE; You can swap in ANY prop' valve plunger- you must just use the corresponding plug with it.....And the plug has different spring-perch sizes also, between the large early springs and the later, smaller springs.....all of the valve bodies will accept any year PLUG (Tho the plugs differ in wrench size)......
Formula Owner JUL 24, 07:31 PM
An update. Apparently, my proclamation of failure was premature. I've driven my Formula to work every day this week, and it SEEMED like the brakes were getting better. So I tried another high speed brake test today. My ride home was down an interstate, then an exit pretty much straight a long straight road. I.e. my brakes should not have been remotely hot at that point. I got up to 80, then braked. I was able to EASILY lock the brakes on the first try, with plenty of additional pedal force available. The re-greasing of my sliders did the trick, even better than I'd hoped. Now I need to re-grease the rear sliders. Might as well get both ends working as they should.


quote
Originally posted by theogre:
Permatex Brake Grease that you find in most auto parts store Will Not:
Suck in dirt into the sliders or most other things. Brake dust and worse can cover the brake grease but cannot migrate into the parts.
Wash off. Not even if you pressure wash the car unless you maybe manage to hit the brake parts directly.
Run in high heat.
Melt until the parts are often way over the Dot 3 4 and 5.1 Brake Fluid Boiling Point. And most cars have enough water in the fluid even fails to meet Wet Boil temp.

I've been using Permatex Green Brake Grease for 35+ years on all kinds of brakes including Big Commercial Vehicles that very hard on brake everyday and Never have problems with the Brake Grease.


Looking on Amazon, the Permatex Green and the CRC grease I posted a posted a photo of... appear to be about the same. Same temperature range. My bottle shows a max temp of 600°. The Amazon page for the CRC grease shows 400° now, just like the Permatex.


quote
Originally posted by theogre:
Unlike having to fix brakes done by others w/ no or wrong lube. Many morons even use Anti Seize in the sliders and other parts that never meant to lube anything.
Many use standard or "Dielectric" silicon grease but they are wrong lube here too. Most have Silicon Oils in the formula that run, often in a few months even when cold, and won't protect.


I remember when I bought the grease in the photo. At one place, an employee tried to sell me Disk Brake Quiet. I told him that that stuff is sorta the opposite of grease. He looked puzzled.

[This message has been edited by Formula Owner (edited 07-26-2019).]