engine codes and poor fuel economy (Page 3/4)
82-T/A [At Work] MAY 25, 11:41 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

you've been one of the very helpful members as well as Patrick and a few other main ones, btw I'm trying to prototype some brackets for your serpentine belt swap to be more like the stock v6




Wow, I would be really interested to see what you come up with.

I'll document it once my daughter gets to that point. This weekend we're pulling heads off the 3.4, and then putting the intake and exhaust manifolds back on the Iron Duke.

What I've effectively come up with is:

- Alternator brackets from 84-86 (allows the alternator to be used as the belt tensioner)
- C130 Alternator from a 1988 Pontiac Fiero V6
- Water pump Pulley from a 1987-1988 2.5 Fiero
- A/C Compressor (any kind you want, so long as it has a serpentine pulley on it)
- Crank pulley from an 87-88 2.5 L4 Fiero, or better... the one with the harmonic balancer


The hardest part is honestly trying to find the waterpump pulley. If you have a donor 87-88 motor... no problem. Mine had obviously been pulled a couple of times so it was a little rough. The closest thing I've found is a power steering pulley from a 4.3/5.0/5.7 Chevy engine. It's a 6-groove, and roughly looks to be about the same size and same placement, with the same shaft size. I don't know yet... I just ordered one, and my daughter's water pump is actually at the machine shop seeing if they can get the old one pressed off and put on the new pump. So, we'll see.

But putting it together JUST like that... it's honestly got to be AS good as the factory V-belt for the 84-86. It follows literally the identical path. If I do my maths right, the surface area seems to be roughly about the same, but of course with a little bit better gripping strength. I'd thought long and hard about what I get out of this, but the best thing in my opinion is that it eliminates the need for two belts, and allows you to run a more modern serpentine. Serpentine belts tend to have a better grip strength than a single V-belt.

When you look at the V6 Fiero... the serpentine belt would slip because, like what I'm doing, there's no place for an idler pulley. They solved this of coruse with the 87-88 Fieros by using a belt tensioner w/ idler. Rodney Dickman of course made the bracket w/ idler for the V6 motors and essentially completely solves the slipping problem. I just don't (yet) see a good place to place such a thing. I can't re-use the factory 87-88 belt tensioner because the block is physically different, and the bolts for the 84-86 could not withstand the tension that would put on them (it would cause the water pump block off to leak). I'm hoping though that once we get all the accessories on, and everything bolted back on... we'll see some more obvious points where we can incorporate an idler pulley. Even if that's just buying a super long bolt and sticking it right next to the alternator.


Here's a quick status of where we are on the engine... I'm cheating... my daughter is like 3 videos behind... but never the less...





EDIT: Another thing too... I just realized that the Fiero V6 has 5 grooves on the pulleys, where as the L4 has 6 grooves on the pulleys... so that's another little benefit to switching over... and why it may not have the same issues as the L4. Of course, the V6 used a separate belt for the compressor... but I'm swapping to the newer style of compressor which doesn't create as much load as the old DA6 style compressor does.

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 05-25-2024).]

cartercarbaficionado MAY 25, 06:02 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
Wow, I would be really interested to see what you come up with.

I'll document it once my daughter gets to that point. This weekend we're pulling heads off the 3.4, and then putting the intake and exhaust manifolds back on the Iron Duke.

What I've effectively come up with is:

- Alternator brackets from 84-86 (allows the alternator to be used as the belt tensioner)
- C130 Alternator from a 1988 Pontiac Fiero V6
- Water pump Pulley from a 1987-1988 2.5 Fiero
- A/C Compressor (any kind you want, so long as it has a serpentine pulley on it)
- Crank pulley from an 87-88 2.5 L4 Fiero, or better... the one with the harmonic balancer


The hardest part is honestly trying to find the waterpump pulley. If you have a donor 87-88 motor... no problem. Mine had obviously been pulled a couple of times so it was a little rough. The closest thing I've found is a power steering pulley from a 4.3/5.0/5.7 Chevy engine. It's a 6-groove, and roughly looks to be about the same size and same placement, with the same shaft size. I don't know yet... I just ordered one, and my daughter's water pump is actually at the machine shop seeing if they can get the old one pressed off and put on the new pump. So, we'll see.

But putting it together JUST like that... it's honestly got to be AS good as the factory V-belt for the 84-86. It follows literally the identical path. If I do my maths right, the surface area seems to be roughly about the same, but of course with a little bit better gripping strength. I'd thought long and hard about what I get out of this, but the best thing in my opinion is that it eliminates the need for two belts, and allows you to run a more modern serpentine. Serpentine belts tend to have a better grip strength than a single V-belt.

When you look at the V6 Fiero... the serpentine belt would slip because, like what I'm doing, there's no place for an idler pulley. They solved this of coruse with the 87-88 Fieros by using a belt tensioner w/ idler. Rodney Dickman of course made the bracket w/ idler for the V6 motors and essentially completely solves the slipping problem. I just don't (yet) see a good place to place such a thing. I can't re-use the factory 87-88 belt tensioner because the block is physically different, and the bolts for the 84-86 could not withstand the tension that would put on them (it would cause the water pump block off to leak). I'm hoping though that once we get all the accessories on, and everything bolted back on... we'll see some more obvious points where we can incorporate an idler pulley. Even if that's just buying a super long bolt and sticking it right next to the alternator.


Here's a quick status of where we are on the engine... I'm cheating... my daughter is like 3 videos behind... but never the less...





EDIT: Another thing too... I just realized that the Fiero V6 has 5 grooves on the pulleys, where as the L4 has 6 grooves on the pulleys... so that's another little benefit to switching over... and why it may not have the same issues as the L4. Of course, the V6 used a separate belt for the compressor... but I'm swapping to the newer style of compressor which doesn't create as much load as the old DA6 style compressor does.



seems like you got it figured out so far, I'll likely try a similar path but use a modified tensioner off of a 4.3l v6 engine and use the random bolt holes around the engine block to hold it
cartercarbaficionado MAY 26, 05:44 AM
new issue popped up. it wouldn't start up again and just kept popping and cranking so I started whacking the egr and it started right up and had a load of power back, so it's been stuck open and the exhaust is making an Interedting noise so I think it's clogged up based on how it backfired only out of one tip and then spit molten sparks out of all 4 20 minutes later
cartercarbaficionado MAY 26, 07:31 PM
new sound. ticking sound only on acceleration so I think the injectors are going out
Yellow-88 MAY 27, 11:48 AM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
I don't know how anyone could take that as a critique. Probably a better way you could word that. He's trying to address a lot of problems at once.



Hi

Perhaps a better word would be "Informative observation". Problem solving require some "structure" in ones thinking. Being "All over the place" is not conducive to effective problem solving.

Yello-88

Jason88Notchie MAY 27, 12:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Yellow-88:


Hi

Perhaps a better word would be "Informative observation". Problem solving require some "structure" in ones thinking. Being "All over the place" is not conducive to effective problem solving.

Yello-88



Yellow, I couldn't "like" this post any more. Troubleshooting issues require a systematic approach. Structure is another good way to put it.
82-T/A [At Work] MAY 27, 04:56 PM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

new sound. ticking sound only on acceleration so I think the injectors are going out



I would try to identify where the ticking is coming from... is this on an Iron Duke, or the V6? Of all the Fiero's I've owned, a ticking more often than not is as a result of a cracked exhaust manifold. It's weird, but it can making a ticking sound.

The injectors do make a ticking sound too... but different. Use a stethoscope to pin-point the sound.
cartercarbaficionado MAY 27, 05:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:


I would try to identify where the ticking is coming from... is this on an Iron Duke, or the V6? Of all the Fiero's I've owned, a ticking more often than not is as a result of a cracked exhaust manifold. It's weird, but it can making a ticking sound.

The injectors do make a ticking sound too... but different. Use a stethoscope to pin-point the sound.


the v6. I thought it was exhaust but it ain't leaking or cracked so my injectors are getting loud for some reason
82-T/A [At Work] MAY 27, 05:23 PM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:

the v6. I thought it was exhaust but it ain't leaking or cracked so my injectors are getting loud for some reason




I would still considering using a stethoscope. They sell them at Harbor Freight cheap. The tiniest cracks in the exhaust manifold (usually the one closest to the back window / forward manifold) gets a hairline crack and makes a pronounced ticking noise.

After a few months, it'll sound like a lawn mower... but it'll just be a light ticking at first. But it could very well be the injectors. It certainly wouldn't be an issue though. It becomes an issue when they STOP ticking... haha...
Yellow-88 MAY 27, 06:52 PM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
I would still considering using a stethoscope. They sell them at Harbor Freight cheap. The tiniest cracks in the exhaust manifold (usually the one closest to the back window / forward manifold) gets a hairline crack and makes a pronounced ticking noise.

After a few months, it'll sound like a lawn mower... but it'll just be a light ticking at first. But it could very well be the injectors. It certainly wouldn't be an issue though. It becomes an issue when they STOP ticking... haha...



Absolutely you need a stethoscope. And a "hiss tube" , a piece of thin metal tube connected to a piece of flexible tube that yo hold up to your ear. With it you can hear the tine tiniest vacuum or exhaust leaks. Old time tools that you should reach for first, when listening for any engine sound.

Yellow-88