1988 fiero formula idling at 2k rpm and rad fan stuck on (Page 3/3) Dukesterpro APR 24, 09:19 AM I'd like to step in and help. But we need to get a few things straight. You need to tell us the whole issue and not leave out critical parts till the end. Your fan being on is a symptom of overheating at worst, completely unrelated at best. It isn't causing overheating, period. Unless you wired it in backwards, which I doubt. If you are overheating at speed with a GT bumper it's because you don't have an air dam. The GT nose cannot provide sufficient airflow across the rad without one, this will be most noticeable at speed when you are generating the most heat, but still won't have enough airflow. Explain the computer situation in more detail if you believe its related. What it has to do with a 84s waterneck is beyond me. olejoedad APR 24, 09:29 AM quote Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT: Think about it, the fan blades are always in the airflow the same amount, even when spinning, if anything, it is still improving cooling at speed because instead of just a chunk of plastic in the Airstream, it is turning and going with the Airstream, I definitely think the air dam is the issue, the radiator gets most of its air from that, very little from the openings, especially with a license plate. Considering air will take the easiest path, at speed your air is likely going in the opening, then straight under the radiator, skipping it entirely, instead of getting forced into the radiator along with a bunch of lower air by that air dam. The GT/aero nose is a bottom breather, and the air dam is crucial to proper cooling. The air dam creates a low pressure area behind it when moving, creating a pressure differential and airflow through the radiator. Proper ducting panels are also important. The Formula nose is a mouth breather, there is no airflow to the radiator from underneath the car. The O/P has a GT/Aero nose on the car - the air dam has to be installed for proper airflow through the radiator. cartercarbaficionado APR 24, 04:02 PM no idea what happened but it seems to have fixed itself after a Heat cycle and aggressive drive well except for the terrible wandering idle that was the original issue,no idea why or how it's fixed now. still a broken fuel gauge but I'll get to that eventually now that it's at least running and driving minus the select cable that decided to break cartercarbaficionado APR 24, 04:05 PM I'm sure it's gonna be back on the forum again soon since I kinda hate the 2.8l and was thinking of a carburetor swap or maybe a v8, it's been so long I forgot how slow it is compared to something weighing 400 pound more and making 180 hp so it definitely needs some tuning work olejoedad APR 24, 04:13 PM The 2.8 in the Fiero will not make more HP with a carb. All you will gain is more gas being used. You say you O² sensor has a problem? That's the first place you should start for better performance. It probably running pig rich. cartercarbaficionado APR 24, 09:01 PM quote Originally posted by olejoedad: The 2.8 in the Fiero will not make more HP with a carb. All you will gain is more gas being used. You say you O² sensor has a problem? That's the first place you should start for better performance. It probably running pig rich. it's not, just bought a new one to have one and discovered the old one was rounded off, actually seems a little lean since it appantly really hates ignition timing and wants very very little and likes to backfire or afterfire violently at random (litterally just found this out while tuning it) regardless I'm putting a wide band on it soon and figuring out the rest of its issues olejoedad APR 24, 09:07 PM You do know that when timing it the ALDL needs to be jumped to prevent the ECU from controlling spark advance..... Most 2.8's like 10 to 12 BTDC... cartercarbaficionado APR 25, 08:35 PM quote Originally posted by olejoedad: You do know that when timing it the ALDL needs to be jumped to prevent the ECU from controlling spark advance..... Most 2.8's like 10 to 12 BTDC... I haven't put a light on it yet as I don't have one, I'm just gonna set a static time of ~8 or so and sew what it likes and yes I do know. I've never bothered to ever do it since if it cranks up well its probably close enough to not matter much in my experience on 6 different 80s to early 90s gms cartercarbaficionado APR 27, 08:33 AM behavior is being super weird rn but usual for this example idle is bouncy and gets worse the longer it idles (came down to 1k for a short while before shooting back up to 2k and bouncing between like a big cam that it does not have) check engine light Is on but turns off at 3.5k rpm? also spitting 2 foot flames on shifts and launches after a spirited drive got its power back to "normal" aka can do a small peel out and slid the back out if asked to temp gauge was going between the 2nd and 3rd tick but never higher after it burst the passenger side rear rad hose (gm part 10120079) and I replaced it with a uh...better one? rad fan is still stuck on but sometimes takes a minute to do so