No Lights? (Page 3/4)
Cailibird APR 25, 12:40 PM
I took a look at the ground. It looks completely fine. I still took it off, cleaned. But there wasn't any corrosion by the look of it. Do I need to take the ENTIRE thing out? Every connector looks fine. The wires for the most part look completely fine. At least the wires that aren't all taped together and such.

I got the headlight switch coming in so it could be the problem.

Any other ideas?
olejoedad APR 25, 12:58 PM
Wait for the switch.

Brake light power is as follows...
STOP/HAZ FUSE - ORANGE WIRE TO
BRAKE SWITCH - LT BLU WIRE TO
HIGH LEVEL STOP

BRAKE SWITCH - WHITE WIRE TO
TURN/HAZARD SWITCH ASSEMBLY -
YELLOW WIRE TO LEFT BRAKE LIGHTS
DK GREEN WIRE TO RIGHT BRAKE LIGHTS

Your STOP/HAZ FUSE could be blown check the fuse with a meter-dont visually inspect it)
Your BRAKE SWITCH could be bad (does the plunger move? It's easy to take apart and clean)
Your TURN/HAZARD SWITCH could be bad (it's in the column)
The pigtail from the column could be unplugged
Cailibird APR 26, 09:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Wait for the switch.

Brake light power is as follows...
STOP/HAZ FUSE - ORANGE WIRE TO
BRAKE SWITCH - LT BLU WIRE TO
HIGH LEVEL STOP

BRAKE SWITCH - WHITE WIRE TO
TURN/HAZARD SWITCH ASSEMBLY -
YELLOW WIRE TO LEFT BRAKE LIGHTS
DK GREEN WIRE TO RIGHT BRAKE LIGHTS

Your STOP/HAZ FUSE could be blown check the fuse with a meter-dont visually inspect it)
Your BRAKE SWITCH could be bad (does the plunger move? It's easy to take apart and clean)
Your TURN/HAZARD SWITCH could be bad (it's in the column)
The pigtail from the column could be unplugged



Brake switch plunger. That's that thing that's "pressed up" against the side of the brake pedal. Little white box with a thing sticking out of it.

If that's what you're talking about. Yeah I took a look at that already. Nothing is wrong with that, moves completely fine no problem.

The turn switch actually works now. Idk what I did to fix it. But yeah that works. And all the lights will blink

I'll check the pigtail thing here in a second.
I'll also check the fuse again
Cailibird APR 26, 04:16 PM
Little update. The pigtail is fine

But when I tested the TAIL fuse. And the STOP/HAZ fuse. Only one side of the fuse was working. If that makes sense

All of the other fuses were good. And I used a volt meter.

What do you think that could be?
olejoedad APR 26, 04:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cailibird:

Little update. The pigtail is fine

But when I tested the TAIL fuse. And the STOP/HAZ fuse. Only one side of the fuse was working. If that makes sense

All of the other fuses were good. And I used a volt meter.

What do you think that could be?



One side of a fuse can't be good.
With that said, only one side of the fuse socket will have power - if the fuse is good, it sends the power to the other connector on the fuse socket.

I would suggest replacing both fuses for starters.....
Cailibird APR 28, 01:16 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:


One side of a fuse can't be good.
With that said, only one side of the fuse socket will have power - if the fuse is good, it sends the power to the other connector on the fuse socket.

I would suggest replacing both fuses for starters.....



So. I still haven't got my headlight switch. But I was at a hardware store and decided to try new fuses.

That fixed it. I just bought new ones and its odd, the old fuses look completely fine. Almost "brand new", but hey. It worked
olejoedad APR 28, 03:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cailibird:


So. I still haven't got my headlight switch. But I was at a hardware store and decided to try new fuses.

That fixed it. I just bought new ones and its odd, the old fuses look completely fine. Almost "brand new", but hey. It worked



Glad it works.
Never trust a fuse by its looks.
Always use a meter and check continuity through the fuse.
olejoedad APR 28, 03:38 PM

quote
Originally posted by Cailibird:

I'm going to start off with. I already checked the fuses, they all look good.

The headlights will turn on, but they wont close. Every single other light isn't turning on at all though. No side markers, no tail lights. The brake lights wont turn on either. I actually didn't check if the reverse lights work or not.
Does anyone have any clue as to what could be going on here?
What else should I look at. The car sat for about a month and a half, almost 2 months because I needed a new crank position sensor. I also replaced the alternator while I waited on the sensor. I also have a new battery. Good thing is that it runs now.

Any thoughts? I want to go on night cruises safely.



That's your first post in this thread.

If you had known how to properly check a fuse, you would have saved yourself, and others, a lot of time.

Next time you ask for help, be POSITIVE you are providing CORRECT information.
87GT3800SC5SPD APR 28, 04:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:


Glad it works.
Never trust a fuse by its looks.
Always use a meter and check continuity through the fuse.



Fuses can test good by a continuity check, but not be able to carry power.

I spent a long time chasing a fan circuit and all of the possible causes for not running, when a neighbor asked if I had changed the fuse. I said that the fuse looked good and I had checked the continuity, when he quickly suggested I change the fuse. The fan worked instantly, followed by an explanation that visual or continuity tests are not always accurate.
olejoedad APR 28, 05:10 PM

quote
Originally posted by 87GT3800SC5SPD:


Fuses can test good by a continuity check, but not be able to carry power.

I spent a long time chasing a fan circuit and all of the possible causes for not running, when a neighbor asked if I had changed the fuse. I said that the fuse looked good and I had checked the continuity, when he quickly suggested I change the fuse. The fan worked instantly, followed by an explanation that visual or continuity tests are not always accurate.



That's a very rare occurrence. If there is continuity, current can flow.

How do you think a continuity test works?
If a 9 volt meter can show continuity, you can bet that 12 volts will flow.

Another way to test would be to probe both sides of the fuse while still in the panel, but that's a lot more difficult to perform.

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 04-28-2024).]