84 Duke Auto to Manual Swap EPROM Concern (Page 3/3)
buddycraigg JUL 15, 05:06 PM

quote
Originally posted by Derekw66:

So no one thinks an automatic ECM being in a now manual car can cause this issue? Just trying to rule this out as a possibility.



I don't
Patrick JUL 15, 05:28 PM

When the fuel pressure appears to be 3x more than it's supposed to be, I think that should be the #1 priority to deal with.
Dennis LaGrua JUL 22, 09:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


When the fuel pressure appears to be 3x more than it's supposed to be, I think that should be the #1 priority to deal with.



Sounds like the wrong pump is installed. .

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Derekw66 JUL 28, 07:33 PM
Ok, I triple checked the timing and it is spot on 8 degrees, idle is better but throttle response is a bit sluggish with no load but ok. It wants to die when I get the clutch about half out, begins to shutter and shake the whole car. I give it a bunch of throttle but it struggles to move. with the clutch fully engaged it begins to buck and throttle response is nearly nil. It's either wanting to die or needs 4k rpm. Fuel pressure is rechecked with a known good gauge this time and is solid at 12psi with key on, at idle and under no load revving. TPS was rechecked to make sure it is connected properly, no vacuum leaks. I'm basically out of ideas other than a manual cpu installed since this is a auto/manual swap and I still have the auto's computer installed.
olejoedad JUL 28, 07:59 PM
Derek,

Back to your ECU/EPROM...

All 1984 cars used the 1226156 ECU

The manual trans cars used these EPROMS

M19 4 speed (4.10 final)
DDVB0203
DDB3044
AMPM9338

MY8 (3.32 final)
DDC0196
DJC1438
AMPM9342

Hope this helps
Patrick JUL 28, 07:59 PM

At an RPM that allows the engine to run at a relatively constant speed, I'd ground out (not disconnect) one spark plug lead at a time to ensure that each cylinder is playing an equal role in powering the engine. The RPM drop should be similar across the board.
Derekw66 JUL 29, 08:25 AM

Engine runs smooth with no load applied, I checked exhaust manifold temps and they were all between 305-335.
Derekw66 AUG 03, 05:00 PM

Well great news, the car is running as it should, I honestly don't know what I did to get it sorted. After I connected the fuel pressure gauge it started running better with better throttle response. I took off the gauge and it still ran better as far as throttle response. I drove it without the air cleaner connected and it ran great but I had a check engine light for the map sensor. I put the air filter back on, checked the connections at the map sensor and after driving for a few miles the light went out. It comes on sometimes when reversing but goes off again shortly after. I'm lost but somewhat content for now.