 
     |
| Wheel Lock lost! (Page 3/4) |
|
Patrick
|
JUL 20, 10:26 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by David Hambleton:
I hope when people see the original poster no blood pressure issues ensue... Lol!
|
|
Only members who've been here for quite awhile will know what the heck you're talking about. 
|
|
|
theogre
|
JUL 20, 10:39 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by David Hambleton:
Ogre! C'mon man! Lol! We went through this seven years ago: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...2/HTML/135531-2.html
In that thread, I posted the Sep 1983 order sheet; PB4 was for the locks (from McGard).
BTW, the M in the center is on the stud; signifying Metric... |
|
OH gee Ogre forgot a 7 year old thread...
Those locks were installed by a Dealer and not GM for Fiero and others. Just One of the few "options" that Dealers can install on new vehicles.
And not same McGard units sold thru normal retail in most places.
McGard can sell a key but often need a key code many don't have even after a year or 3.
|
|
|
|
rourke_87_T-Top
|
JUL 20, 11:53 PM
|
|
I bought an ‘88 Formula years ago and it had one wheel orphan lock in terrible shape, someone had tried unsuccessfully to remove it and there wasn’t enough to grip.
I used I think it was a 3/8” cobalt drill bit and slowly drilled through the stud all the way, I only just glazed part of the knurl in the hub boss. I Kicked the tire and it just snapped off. I just popped in a new wheel stud. Saved the wheels. It seems like an extreme method but it worked good for me. Last option
|
|
|
|
sspeedstreet
|
JUL 21, 07:07 PM
|
|
|
|
|
David Hambleton
|
JUL 21, 09:49 PM
|
|
That's for lug nuts with rounded off corners. The McGard lock in the pics above presents no protrusion for the socket to grip.
|
|
|
|
fierosound
|
JUL 22, 11:06 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by rourke_87_T-Top:
I bought an ‘88 Formula years ago and it had one wheel orphan lock in terrible shape, someone had tried unsuccessfully to remove it and there wasn’t enough to grip.
I used I think it was a 3/8” cobalt drill bit and slowly drilled through the stud all the way, I only just glazed part of the knurl in the hub boss. I Kicked the tire and it just snapped off. I just popped in a new wheel stud. Saved the wheels. It seems like an extreme method but it worked good for me. Last option |
|
 Probably the best option at this point.
It saves the wheels and wheel studs are cheap.
A slightly bigger drill and you'd only have to drill the depth of the wheel nut.
------------------
My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)
3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-22-2022).]
|
|
|
|
reinhart
|
JUL 22, 11:58 AM
|
|
|
The other thread, the OP never mentions how he made the tool he used to get them off. If it were me, I'd contact the company, if that failed, I'd weld on a nut, if that failed, I'd drill out the stud.
|
|
|
|
sspeedstreet
|
JUL 22, 07:47 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by David Hambleton:
That's for lug nuts with rounded off corners. The McGard lock in the pics above presents no protrusion for the socket to grip.
|
|
https://youtu.be/rW-b9hDv4tE It's a 1/2" drive reverse threaded socket. Seemed to do a good job on this guys McGard wheel lock.
|
|
|
|
sanderson231
|
JUL 22, 08:57 PM
|
|
|
Surely someone you know has a MIG welder. ------------------
formerly known as sanderson
1984 Quad 4
1886 SE 2.8L
1988 4.9L Cadillac
1988 3800 Supercharged
|
|
|
|
David Hambleton
|
JUL 22, 11:26 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by sspeedstreet:
https://youtu.be/rW-b9hDv4tE It's a 1/2" drive reverse threaded socket. Seemed to do a good job on this guys McGard wheel lock.
|
|
Yep. The lock nut sticks out like a hub nut so the socket has something to grip. The pics in this topic show the wide flat face locknuts with nothing sticking out to be gripped.
|
|
|
