Electric fan upgrade (Page 3/4)
cvxjet FEB 06, 10:54 AM
I would have a bit of trouble with overheating in stop-n-go on hot days.....Finally changed out the rad-fan switch from the 237* to a 225* switch; Now the fan comes on in hot situations- before it would only come on as I pulled over due to overheating.

Do not remember having this problem 25-35 years ago, so possibly the original switch was just getting old and cranky.

And I still have the original radiator; Back in 1986 I was driving up to Trinity lake and hit a piece of firewood- shredded the air dam and tore the radiator support off the frame- I replaced the air dam and crossmember (Total cost from dealer $25) and have had no problems since (Including running over firewood)
Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 09:03 PM
Ok gentlemen. Project is now done.
Here is what I did:
I pirated the female fan harness plug from the factory fan motor. Yes, I soldered the connections and used heat shrink tubing and high quality black electrical tape to insulate/ seal it.

Then, I needed to go to Home Depot for some various bolts, brackets and shrink tubing

[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 02-06-2022).]

Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 09:12 PM
Next, the new fan fit almost perfectly onto the backside edge of the factory shroud. This is where I realized the SPAL “L” brackets I bought were not going to work. They do sell STRAIGHT brackets but I wanted to get the project done. (Sundays are my only real day to work on cars) So, I came up with the idea you see here. You’ll notice I took a package of corner brackets and turned three of them into 6 mini, straight, flat brackets and I also oversized the holes a bit.

If you look closely, you can see that I gave the bolts three flat edges so that the heads would nest down into the square bracket holes in the new fans outer ring.

[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 02-06-2022).]

Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 09:25 PM
Next, I ran some smaller, countersunk screws from the inside of the fans ring to the other hole in the bracket I made. The next pic shows that only a small portion of the screw head protrudes on the fan / inside area.
Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 09:32 PM
This pic (should have shown it earlier) shows how tightly and snugly the new fan sits on top of the factory shroud. Yes, I could have set it further downward into the shroud but this would have been much more work and would not have had such a snug fit/seal.
Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 09:48 PM
Here is the fan assembly back in place.
I took it for a 30 mile afternoon freeway drive (mild shakedown test) and here are a few observations:
1) Fan comes on when temp gauge hits around 190-195 degrees. (we’re talking stock Fiero temp gauge here so I’m not 100% sure of the actual temps)
2) When fan kicks in, it does seem like the temp gauge needle goes back down just a little faster.(if you watch it closely)
3) Despite others saying “S” blade fans are quieter, this one is noticeably louder than the factory fan. Kind of sounds like a Hoover.
4) This fan moves some SERIOUS air!! I’m serious here people,
Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 10:04 PM
Here are a few extras…

Since I took the last pic above, I have already begun painting the metal brackets semi/gloss black.

In all honesty, I did have to slightly relocate the coolant bottle upward to ensure it would clear the back of the fan.

There is one “item” which I believe partly hinders the flow of hot air coming out from the back of the new fan… Norms Fiberglass battery box. Have any of you thought through this? I did not….that is, until I got involved with this electric fan project. Unless I’m mistaken, the fan pulls air from the radiator and channels it downward and out the bottom of the car. Is this correct? If so, that fiberglass battery box interrupts this downeard flow. I love having the battery up front but I didn’t think through the air flow stoppage it creates.
Lambo nut FEB 06, 10:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by Kitskaboodle:

I just thought I would post my electric fan upgrade project here.
I have been wanting to upgrade my electric fan in my 85 GT for a while. My desire is to lower operating temps by a good 10 degrees if possible.
I haven’t done a huge amount of research but I have learned that it pays to get a SPAL electric fan.
So, at this point I have removed the factory fan:motor assembly, I have received the new SPAL fan and am now waiting for the 4 clips/brackets to mount the new fan to the factory shroud.
See pics of the factory shroud/ fan assembly and also the “S” blade side of the new SPAL
fan.
Comments?
Kit




What's the part number for the new fan?
Kitskaboodle FEB 06, 10:23 PM
SPAL 30102049
A word of advice is in order:
In retrospect, I chose to mount the new fan directly on top of the factory shroud backside edge. The fit was good but this did add to the overall depth about an inch. Because of this I had to slightly relocate the coolant bottle.
I would recommend you move it inside the factory shroud as OldJoeDad did and rivet it (or use small, flush screws and nuts) for more clearance, ok?
Thanks Kit
Lambo nut FEB 06, 11:05 PM
Thanks for the info