2.8l v6 turbo charged? (Page 3/6)
Honest Don JAN 14, 01:05 PM

quote
Originally posted by thesameguy:


Are you intercooled? Or using water injection or something similar?

I would think that a small turbo, small intercooler, and ~10psi would make for a good & safe setup.



Yeah, the car has an A2W setup.
Dennis LaGrua JAN 14, 01:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by Honest Don:


Yeah, the car has an A2W setup.



Don, I appreciate your optimism but I consider running that much boost on stock old cast pistons risky. If you get away with it, consider yourself lucky. Cast pistons should be fine for low boost levels. If higher than 6-7 lbs a pyrometer (EGT gauge) that will warn you if you're overheating the pistons might be a good idea. What will kill them really fast is detonation and only one case at WOT may be all that you'll need and this is the result




------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 01-14-2021).]

thesameguy JAN 14, 03:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by Honest Don:

Yeah, the car has an A2W setup.



Nice! With relatively low boost a decent tune that should be pretty reliable. Probably not great for repeated pulls, but for getting around on the street totally fine. A friend has a simple turbo setup on an old F150 six cylinder... it's not fast or anything, but it definitely helps out on the street, and a decade+ later still runs like new even with a carb. Well, "new" in the sense the 50 year old motor doesn't run worse now than it did in 2006 when we installed it.
Honest Don JAN 14, 04:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:


Don, I appreciate your optimism but I consider running that much boost on stock old cast pistons risky. If you get away with it, consider yourself lucky. Cast pistons should be fine for low boost levels. If higher than 6-7 lbs a pyrometer (EGT gauge) that will warn you if you're overheating the pistons might be a good idea. What will kill them really fast is detonation and only one case at WOT may be all that you'll need and this is the result





Ouch! Any idea what was going on when that happened? EDIT: oh, that’s not a 2.8 piston

But yeah, preignition/detonation is bad no matter what.

I don’t monitor egt yet, but I’m pretty religious about watching and logging afr. I try to stay cautious with it and timing, especially around peak torque.


(Apologies for the glare)

[This message has been edited by Honest Don (edited 01-14-2021).]

thesameguy JAN 14, 06:05 PM
I'm enjoying that display at the bottom of the center stack - is that a shadow dash?
Honest Don JAN 14, 07:15 PM

quote
Originally posted by thesameguy:

I'm enjoying that display at the bottom of the center stack - is that a shadow dash?



Raspberry Pi. It’s pretty useful


http://realfierotech.com/vi...pic.php?f=16&t=21762
pmbrunelle JAN 14, 08:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by thesameguy:
not great for repeated pulls, but for getting around on the street totally fine.



My view is that testing/tuning must always be one step more severe than the expected duty.

So, if you want to get around on the street, you must test your car with repeated pulls (without cool-off time).

By surviving the harder test, you can be confident that the car will be reliable for the expected mission.

So you basically have to stress the car at some point, and that's when it's most likely to blow.
thesameguy JAN 14, 10:53 PM
At the end of the day I control the throttle and the cops control the radios and the spike strips, I'm not gonna lose sleep wondering if my car is capable of something it will never encounter. :shrug: I'm fairly certain my XR4Ti can produce more power than the cooling system can handle, but in 15 years I've not encountered the scenario where it's a problem. Sometimes on trips to Tahoe it can get pretty warm - big pulls up big inclines will do that. I just slow down and let it cool off a bit before the next attempt to double the speed limit. It's fine.

[This message has been edited by thesameguy (edited 01-14-2021).]

Will JAN 15, 10:04 AM

quote
Originally posted by Thunderstruck GT:

The tune is always a key factor in any application and that should go without saying, it's not something special to the 2.8. Any turbo or nitrous build is particularly finicky when it comes to the tune.

As a long time drag racer, if you don't have the tune right you will not just lose a race, you could lose an engine regardless of it's induction system.





quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:

Don, I appreciate your optimism but I consider running that much boost on stock old cast pistons risky. If you get away with it, consider yourself lucky. Cast pistons should be fine for low boost levels. If higher than 6-7 lbs a pyrometer (EGT gauge) that will warn you if you're overheating the pistons might be a good idea. What will kill them really fast is detonation and only one case at WOT may be all that you'll need and this is the result

http://images.fieroforum.co...520LaGrua/piston.JPG




Modern advanced engine controls have allowed traditionally "fragile" combinations to make tremendous power for what used to be considered extremely long service lives. Without detonation, amazing combinations can live. With detonation, nothing can live.

This drives home the point that if you're melting pistons, your tune is bad. Full stop.

Pistons don't melt from making power. They melt from detonation.
thesameguy JAN 15, 12:07 PM
A+, would read again.