Cradle bushing replacement... (Page 3/7)
CSM842M4 DEC 16, 01:52 PM
Finally! Got both front bushings without fire! I ended up making a custom pilot for a hole saw mandrel and using three hole saws ( the biggest was a 1-3/4") and various lubriCANs to get them cored out, and a cutoff wheel to remove excess rubber and inner sleeve from beyond the edges of the outer sleeves. And the drill bit trick through the inner rubber. And, lastly, a 2" wire wheel to clean the leftover rubber from the outers.
One question before I proceed - is it a good idea to use any lubricant on the poly bushings going in? I know they're not going to move once they're installed, so I guess I'm more concerned about helping to impede corrosion in the coming years. I don't have any silicone bushing grease, like I've seen included with sway bars that I've installed before. But I do have silicone dielectric grease. I just don't want to use anything that might attack the polyurethane...
peterh DEC 16, 06:20 PM
I just used the grease that came with the poly bushings. If you don't have that I would just use a good wheel bearing grease, unless someone objects.
CSM842M4 DEC 16, 07:02 PM
Thanks, peterh. I ordered my bushings from TFS, who then sent them to me in the ProThane box. Without grease. A little research showed that wheel bearing grease, while not the optimal substitute, was a viable one. So, I figured since my dielectric grease has a silicone base, it might work...
CSM842M4 DEC 16, 07:29 PM
Just ran into my first snag. As I was loosening everything up, while I thought the bolt through the left rear bushing was getting loose, it was actually tearing the threads from the plate. Ogre said in his bushing cave that these were a notorious problem area. I see now that theogre knows all, tells all, speaks truth. So, since these fasteners are a known issue, and I refuse to believe that anybody would discard an otherwise perfectly good car after running into it, what have we found as working remedies? I feel like I can hammer the cut-off bolt and threads out of the hole in the unibody and fish it out, cut and thread a heavy plate to replace the now-missing ones, and replace the bolt with a class million.9 unit. Thoughts? Am I dreaming, thinking all of this will work as planned? Is there a less-labor-intensive fix that is also field tested and proven? Any/all input...you know the rest. Thanks in advance - Chris
theogre DEC 16, 11:50 PM
many cut a flap in frame to remove rear captive nut.
might get at that nut w/o cutting but may need to remove other things blocking access to see and work.

Spray w/ PB Blaster etc often will work but can take hours to days to soak in the threads.
Careful use of heat on the nut may work too but avoid heating other areas could melt or cause fire. pencil tip w/ low flame on the nut only.

Use search.
CSM842M4 DEC 17, 08:07 AM
Thanks, ogre. I can turn the bolt and watch the female threads turn with it through one of the wheelwell liner retainer holes. This makes me feel like if I can't hammer it out, i may be able to drill or burr it out.
CSM842M4 DEC 21, 10:41 AM
Nearing the end of this project, finally. I'm going to cut a window in the left side box to work with the "witch hat" nut. Hopefully just one question remains. While cleaning the cradle ears and beginning to test fit the bushings, it seems that the stamped steel inserts in the bottom of the ears will not allow the lower bushing half to slide in. The opening in the insert is the same shape as the lower half, but is smaller overall. Does this insert get removed to accept the poly bushings?
CSM842M4 DEC 21, 11:09 AM
Okay, maybe one more question - anybody who has windowed the box, is there an optimum size and placement to avoid weakening the back end of the car? I have a variety of sizes of hole saws and plan to weld the slug back in, but maybe not right away. And, I would like to cut the window only once.
Dennis LaGrua DEC 21, 11:18 AM

quote
Originally posted by CSM842M4:

Nearing the end of this project, finally. I'm going to cut a window in the left side box to work with the "witch hat" nut. Hopefully just one question remains. While cleaning the cradle ears and beginning to test fit the bushings, it seems that the stamped steel inserts in the bottom of the ears will not allow the lower bushing half to slide in. The opening in the insert is the same shape as the lower half, but is smaller overall. Does this insert get removed to accept the poly bushings?



Preference here is to remove the rear fascia. Its not that hard. Its about a 30 minute job. After you remove the tail lights there are only screws and push fasteners to remove. With the fascia removed you can reach into the frame with a faucet wrench to hold the captive nuts while you unscrew the bolts. Unless the cut is welded back in place, I dislike cutting into the frame as it weakens it,

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CSM842M4 DEC 21, 01:19 PM
Just now got the fascia removed. Not as bad a task as I had feared. Hopefully, I can get a faucet wrench on the nut AND have it turn loose.