The suspension mystery continues, and I don't know where to go from here. (Page 3/6)
Threedog AUG 11, 10:56 PM
Thanks! I had everything powder coated last fall.

I’m starting to think that my “bouncing” problem might be caused by rapid steering...I’m hoping the balljoints were binding over bumps..
Rickady88GT AUG 11, 11:22 PM

quote
Originally posted by Threedog:


I’m starting to think that my “bouncing” problem might be caused by rapid steering...I’m hoping the balljoints were binding over bumps..


I think it is a great idea to replace the rack with a good one. But I think the binding ball joints comment must be a typo?
Threedog AUG 11, 11:24 PM
I already replaced the rack.

I literally my replaced everything that can be replaced.

This ball joints thing is the last thing I can try.
Rickady88GT AUG 12, 12:05 AM

quote
Originally posted by Threedog:

I already replaced the rack.

I literally my replaced everything that can be replaced.

This ball joints thing is the last thing I can try.



Thats cool, I understood. I was just agreeing that it was the right thing to do.
My confusion is that you said you hoped that the ball joints were binding? I asked if that was a typo?
Either way, if the ball joints did bind up, I don't think it would cause your problem.
My guess is a loose part somewhere?
Did you add a sway bar to the rear or change the front?
Threedog AUG 12, 12:08 AM
I’m hoping they were binding and causing the problem. Then this problem would be solved.

I replaced the sway bar end links up front with Rodneys zero sway ends (from older rodneys) zero sway ends.


No bar on the rear.
liv4God AUG 12, 12:15 AM
Not a guarantee, but worth mentioning. I had my Fiero driving nice, then replaced a few components, lowered it and put on another set of wheels. Suddenly it drove horrible, like it had a mind of its own. I thought it just needed an alignment. Didn't help. Went back multiple times, replaced every suspension component, raised it back up. Nothing helped. Decided to throw my old wheels back on it in a last ditch effort. Drove perfect. Did some testing and found it was the front tires on that other set. Replaced those and all has been well. So, all that to say, have you checked the tires? Any abnormal wear? Or possibly a bent wheel? I learned the expensive and frustrating way that tires and wheels can negatively alter your handling tremendously if something isn't right.

Edit to add: Perhaps something as simple as the wheel balancing is off and causes an up and down bouncing. Also any loose or worn bearings? Jack the car up with the wheel on and give the wheels a shake. Any play?
I think someone already mentioned the axles. Its worth checking. I had a friend who's mr2 had the cvs put together incorrectly not allowing it to make up or down motion. The car felt like it was driving on rocks and eventually busted the cv.

[This message has been edited by liv4God (edited 08-12-2020).]

bjc 350 AUG 12, 12:56 AM
I'm with cmechmann on this. I believe the driver side is supposed to be a stock fiero manual axle. But the passenger side is made up of a variety of parts and the length is not stock Fiero length. You said you installed new axles the same as the originals. I'm assuming the new axles were the same as came with the original engine and transmission, before the swap. I have a 3800 sc swap, but I did not do the install, so can't tell you the correct procedure for the passenger axle length. Likely it would be found in the search function on here. I have not experienced myself, but have read several threads with issues related to loose bolts on the rear struts after an alignment, as well.
Threedog AUG 12, 06:33 PM

quote
Originally posted by bjc 350:

I'm with cmechmann on this. I believe the driver side is supposed to be a stock fiero manual axle. But the passenger side is made up of a variety of parts and the length is not stock Fiero length. You said you installed new axles the same as the originals. I'm assuming the new axles were the same as came with the original engine and transmission, before the swap. I have a 3800 sc swap, but I did not do the install, so can't tell you the correct procedure for the passenger axle length. Likely it would be found in the search function on here. I have not experienced myself, but have read several threads with issues related to loose bolts on the rear struts after an alignment, as well.



Ill check these out as well. I did have the same axles in before and after the suspension rebuild (both with the 3800SC), so I doubt that is it (but it might be).
fierofool AUG 12, 07:24 PM
Regarding axel nut torque . 3 bolts torque to 65. With suspension unloaded, the axle torques to 75. Install wheel and lower. Torque to 200.
DLCLK87GT AUG 13, 09:23 AM
I want to play devils advocate here and ask, did you physically remove the rear wheel well liners and inspect the upper frame rails and cradle mounting points or are you just assuming they are good due to cars history? Just trying to eliminate the obvious. Before you throw any more parts at it, i would inspect the frame and cradle for rust or even cracks if you haven't already.

As far as the axles go i'm fairly sure that the drivers side is a stock Fiero axle, while the passengers side is a combination of manual Fiero and automatic donor parts. Many builds on here and YouTube. I'm not sure you can even get a stock axle to fit but if you did, that might be the problem.

i would also try a different set or rims/tires. Even if you borrow a set from somebody for a test drive.

[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 08-13-2020).]