Starts and idles. Dies as soon as throttle is hit (Page 3/3) Gall757 AUG 07, 05:31 PM quote Originally posted by ChuckR: The car sat for 9 years before I bought it. That bit of information would have been very helpful to us. We have seen what sitting does to these cars, and with that added seafoam info there is not much doubt that the fuel filter is toast. Your fuel tank sender error is very common and probably will not improve until it is replaced. ChuckR AUG 08, 10:16 AM quote Originally posted by Rexgirl: Gall757 is 100% correct, the yellow cap is somebody's idea of a tach filter. The factory filter contains two capacitors wired between ground and the signal wire from the coil to the tach (those two wires going to the factory connector you've circled). There is also a inline resistor between those two capacitors on the signal side. Thank you for the verification. I will have to order the correct filter and wire it back in since I deleted the whole bit when I ran the new pigtail since none of it looked right. So far I have not seen any adverse effects from it being gone. my tach isn't bouncing around or anything. I still need to figure out the fan switch, I have to run the AC to keep the rad fan running. Speaking of the AC when I changed the starter I notice the high pressure switch wire harness is missing so I need to figure that out to get AC back. I have changed the switch but it was a "universal" so I am thinking it doesn't work correctly. If I ground the lead it does turn the fan on, so it has to be in the switch. The temp gauge doesn't work even after installing a new switch for that (one from the Fiero Store). And shortly after i got the car the oil pressure gauge started pegging out. There is also a male 4 pin weather pack connector right next to the thermostat that isnt connected to anything, if anyone knows what that is and can tell me I would appreciate it. I know that in the 80's GM would make 1 harness for all models and only use the connectors the car was equipped with so I am guessing that is the deal here but it would be great to know for certain. The PO did an EGR delete but did provide me with the original EGR adapter, New EGR, and braided tube. However i was looking at the solenoid and it looks like someone packed epoxy in the lower vacuum orifice so it reinstall I will need to replace that. He said it was his grandfather's car and he doesnt think the ERG was deleted in the computer. I bought this car to be a project so it looks like I am not going to be disappointed. A lot of this list may not be sorted since in a couple of years I plan to do an engine/trans swap. I am still researching what I want to do on that. I am thinking LLT/LFX with the 6T70E. Or the LZ9 with the 4T75E. I am looking at getting a complete donor car to pull as much from one place a possible. Since I have not seen one completed LLT/ LFX build when I search the forums (though i may be searching wrong) and the last reference to it being 5 years ago I am timid when it comes to that combo. However I do See that BMWGURU did complete a GM HFV6/ F40 swap out of a Saab so I know that it can work but again that was 6 years ago on the 2.8 turbo. I think as far as the tuning goes from HPTuners that 5-6 years should make a difference, but I dont know for sure. I know the easiest rout would be a 3800SC since it is so well documented. I just want to put a more modern engine in. Sorry for my rambling here. My goal is to enjoy this car stock for a few years before I do surgery. I also want to do as little frame cutting as possible, I would prefer to cut no frame at all when the time comes.