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| I hooked my battery up backwards in my 1988 Fiero Formula (Page 3/5) |
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olejoedad
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APR 07, 09:05 PM
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Check for battery voltage on the wire from Battery Junction Terminal ( below C500) that has the disconnect plug. Check the c500 side of plug for+12VDC.
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Division006
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APR 08, 07:38 PM
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The one with the Connector below the C500 box, is running 12.56 volts just fine. The other one is running 8.8 volts and bounces lower if it can. I guess that fuselink fried? It's a 12 Amp fuselink. I wonder where that wire goes? Somewhere towards the map sensor or like fuel injectors? The other 2 fuselinks are good, just checked them. [This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-08-2018).]
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Division006
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APR 08, 08:26 PM
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https://ibb.co/mTufmc
https://ibb.co/hkivKx
Thank God I tore off a Wiring Harness out of a 1988 Pontiac Fiero that was about to be junked =/ If I had a trailer I would have saved both of them but couldn't =/
I have already seen your ECM " ventilation " link years ago Ogre. I have read your entire cave, and lived in it for awhile dude >.<
Ok, so I am wondering where the red wire goes. I know I followed it on this other harness, but I cut it really soon. Must go to the alternater cs130 ? Does this mean the Fuselink did its job saving some of my stuff even though it was 12 guage amp?[This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-09-2018).]
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Division006
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APR 09, 01:54 AM
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I checked the Starter with Multimeter and had a friend turn Key, the Starter is getting juice. It appears that the ECM is fried, I don't think on Accessory it's telling the fuel pump to do anything. I went to the ALDL connector and tried to pin shortcut to see if Fuel Pump would run and no noise inside the gas tank. I have a feeling Fuel Pump is fried. I am checking the Fuel Pump Relay and the rest of these relays to make sure they work. As for everything else, none of my Guages are pegging or doing anything weird.
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olejoedad
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APR 09, 07:48 AM
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There are two fusible links attached to the BJT that are on the engine harness. The one with the in line connector is +12VDC power to the ECU. The other connects the alternator +12VDC output to the electrical system.
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Division006
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APR 09, 12:47 PM
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"The other connects the alternator +12VDC output to the electrical system." <---- This 12 amp fuse is reading +8.8VDC on the outgoing side of the Fuselink from the BJT box should I cut this Fuselink out and soulder in the other 12 amp Fuselink that I have from this other Wiring Harness? The fact it's not pushing 12.56 volts like the others means that it needs replaced right?
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olejoedad
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APR 09, 01:46 PM
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Interesting question.
Check voltage at the BJT and at the alternator charge post. Compare the voltage readings.
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olejoedad
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APR 09, 01:48 PM
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I seldom replace fusible links when they blow.
I replace with a waterproof fuse holder and fuse.
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Division006
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APR 10, 12:18 AM
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It was a pain in the ass to try and find a 12 Amp fuselink. I am just going to use the Fuselink off this Wiring Harness I ripped out of another car. I am then attaching Heat Shrink tubing and hopefully nothing fries in the far future. Autozone or Many other places don't have 12 Amp. Is there a link of a picture where you can show me what you're talking about? I know I need to protect it, should i not use Heat Shrink Tube and use what you're talking about? There is supposed to be 12 Volts going through that, and there's only 8. I have a feeling that 12 Amp fried. I will check tmw what you are talking about. [This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-10-2018).]
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olejoedad
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APR 10, 10:07 AM
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Let's get some terminology correct. It will help you in the long run.
A fusible link is typically 4 wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it it protecting. The wire from the BJT to the alternator is 14 gage. The fusible link would be an 18 gage fusible link.
In a short length like a fusible link, an 18 gage wire can handle 40 amps at 12VDC.
Fusible link wire is sold by gage size, not amperage capacity.
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