Getrag transmission problem on low mileage Fiero GT (Page 3/17)
cvxjet OCT 20, 11:14 PM
Just a thought- aren't the same basic Getrags used in some Saabs? He would stand a much better chance of finding one of them over in Austria...I know it's FF, so he may need a kit from Rodney....I think Rodney makes the FF to MR Getrag kit...? Of course, if he's dead set on absolutely stock, then this is all moot....
hobbywrench OCT 21, 12:47 AM
Reading Rodney comments... If you have a good relation with your rebuild shop you should convince them to take a torque turn-over reading on a fresh rebuild Getrag, preferably several so a range could be established. You could make a spline adaptor with a socket female on one end. It would only take a minute to get the reading. The shim select tooling and shims shown in the GM manual for the diff bearings are intimidating and out of reach. I think I only disassembled and assembled because the only shims I remember fussing with was the back plate. I understand your statement on "silvery lubricant " at first drain. I have seen it on other cars. It is unfortunate that so little has been written on manual transmission rebuild (at least when I searched in 2003). The knowledge is out there. Somebody (Rodney) better sit down with these mechanics like musicians did with the delta blues guitar guys before this knowledge is lost forever (electric, self driving cars etc). Put out the book in paperback or floppy.

Edit: I did visit the best trans shop I could find in Medford OR when I took the unit apart (a pig stye). They did not have a clue except the main man did predict worn synchros which I verified when apart. Otherwise the unit was really in good shape, mileage unknown.

[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 10-21-2015).]

sardonyx247 OCT 21, 11:41 AM
I highly recommend getting a shim select tool if you can find one, I have one my self and found taking 3 trans apart not one was shimmed right.
Moar OCT 21, 11:56 AM

quote
I highly recommend getting a shim select tool if you can find one, I have one my self and found taking 3 trans apart not one was shimmed right.



If I decide to rebuilt the MG282 I also think I´ll buy this shim selector kit.
I think it is affordable when I buy an old used kit on ebay (about $50-65).
With this kit I can set the proper preload acc. to the Muncie manual (preload with 0.100 mm oversized shim).
There might be also some transmission specialists out there which can select the proper shim just by turning
the shaft and feeling the friction torque, but if I can find a real specialist or not is not sure.
And the sufficient axial preload is very important for helix gears in view of NVH and bearing life.

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 10-21-2015).]

Moar OCT 21, 12:16 PM
@ cvxjet:

Are you referring to the F35 tranny which can be found in the Saab 9-3?
I guess for this swap an engine adapter plate would be required, or does the F35 come with the "right" bellhousing?
Also the F40 is not a preferred option for me, because an extremely expensive kit is required for a Fiero F40 swap

See Archie´s tranny master kits:
http://www.v8archie.us/master-kit.html
(prices are WITHOUT transmissions!!!)

I wanna find a tranny with the right V6 GM 60° bellhousing pattern, cause this saves a lot of time, money and trouble.
Besides that, an engine adapter plate may look suspicious for some Austrian cops (e.g. engine swap)!

My plan is to swap the 3.4PR engine (shortblock) into my Fiero GT at the same time I´m rebuilding the tranny.
(in the end engine/transmission should look more or less unmodified/stock)

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 10-21-2015).]

Moar OCT 21, 12:37 PM
@ hobbywrench:

Thank you for the link (Car-Part.com) for finding used car parts in US - very useful for me!

Regarding the Pontiac 88 Fiero repair manual I only have the Chilton manual and the Pontiac Parts and Illustration catalog.
If you find some time can you please scan in the "Muncie 282 7B3/7B3A" sections and upload the scanned document here?
Of course if you (or someone else here) need help one day finding out OEM numbers I´ll assist you with the Pontiac Parts and Illustration catalog.

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 10-21-2015).]

hobbywrench OCT 21, 02:02 PM
Moar, Further I saw even more salvage units by revisiting the site and asking for a different GM model. Also I note a couple references to "reman, "however I would be very leery of the term. I think that could mean almost anything (marketing). I did see a couple units with alleged 70K miles and one @1 K miles. Also one with a broken slave bolt hole. As you know minor ( and even major) aluminum repair is routine with heli-arc. My 2003 notes also referenced a rebuilder who wanted $2300 . Though high , that is probably a reasonable price for a true professional rebuild. I had 100 hours in at my learning rate. If a pro could manage it in 25 hours (labor? $40?) and add all parts that $2000 level could be easily reached. I can not scan just now. PM me your mailing address.
Moar OCT 28, 02:36 PM
Small update - Flip up dip stick repair:

Yesterday I´ve had some time and fixed the sloppy flip up dip stick in a quarter-hour:









Made out of 0.8 mm aluminum sheet metal.
Now the flip up dip stick sits tight and seals again.

Also a cheap and easy fix!
(I haven´t found any bread bag plastic clips here in Austria)

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 10-28-2015).]

Moar OCT 28, 03:01 PM
BTW, I´m currently thinking about the "real world" torque capacity of the Getrag-282.

If the Getrag-282 tranny is generally a "weak" transmission then I would prefer a transmission swap (e.g. F23) instead of rebuilding my MG-282 tranny.

Sooner or later I´ll also carry out the engine swap (cammed 3.4PR) and I´m thinking about using a nitrous kit for
some additional power (if I can get a N2O kit trough customs and if I can find a cheap source of N2O supply in Austria).

Do you think the MG-282 withstands the higher torque loads (3.4L + N2O)?

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 10-28-2015).]

Formula88 OCT 28, 09:33 PM
I would hold off on putting in a different transmission until you're ready to do your engine swap, etc. Swap plans frequently change in the planning stages and what you decide to go with may require changes to the transmission again.

The 282 is plenty strong enough for a cammed 3.4PR, even with occasional Nitrous use. Shock loads are what kills the transmission fastest and you're not doing to be doing clutch dumps with the Nitrous activated. (I hope!)

Do you intend to drag race the car on a track with slicks? Then the strength of the 282 may be in question even with a 3.4. Anything will break if you beat on it hard enough. Decide what your final configuration will be and intended use and you'll have a better idea of a tranny swap makes sense. Or if you have the funds and just want to do it - go for it. Nothing wrong with that either.