Does flipping over the strut top mounting plate change the Fiero's rear height? (Page 3/6)
Will NOV 22, 10:40 AM

quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

Could you draw this up for me please? Or edit the pic to show exactly what you said?
I believe that the pic shows the flange does change position in relation to the camber bolt. Maybe I just misunderstand what you said?



The photo shows that, but the shorter one just had to be compressed more to be assembled. That's a function of having less rebound travel and more jounce travel than stock. Install them and put weight on them and the two will have exactly the same ride height.
Will NOV 22, 10:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by 85sliverGT:

Fits without modification on my 88




Ok.
Rickady88GT NOV 22, 06:57 PM
OK, I was wrong. The flip Does Not lower the car. After looking at what was said in this thread I now understand where I was misunderstanding.
I can be a little hard headed but with enough persuasion I can be reached. Thanks for the clarification on the matter
Without changing the lower spring perch on the strut OR the strut tower in the car ( basically the top of the spring rests under it ) moving the hat does not affect ride height.

This thread would have been MUCH better if I were right, but sense I am the one that is wrong, it is just OK

Sorry if I misled anyone on this.
Patrick NOV 22, 08:58 PM

quote
Originally posted by Rickady88GT:

Sorry if I misled anyone on this.



Hey Rick, don't feel bad. I suspect a lot of people believed what you initially thought... that's why I wanted this discussion!

Over the years I had seen it mentioned numerous times that people had flipped over the top plate for the struts and I wondered why. As as been pointed out in this thread, it doesn't make any difference in how the rear of a Fiero sits. However...

When shorter rear springs are installed, flipping the top plate over helps to put a pre-load on the springs which keeps them in place. When I cut the rear springs in my '84, it was a nuisance every time I jacked the back of the car up as the rear springs would come off their perches in the struts. When I flipped over the top plates, this reconfigured the strut assemblies and the rear springs were now held in place. However...

What I was unprepared for was the fact that the decklid would no longer close. With the "knob" of the top plate sticking up, the end of the strut now hit the decklid. I'm sure someone has mentioned this previously over the years, but I don't recall ever reading it here (prior to this thread). Interestingly enough, Pontiac put a partial "hole" exactly where this contact is made, and by drilling out another layer of material (with a hole saw), the hole is then deep enough to allow the decklid to fully close. The drilled out hole is pictured below. You can easily tell when you've drilled out the necessary layer. Just don't drill any further!



Here are three shots of the top of my 84's struts. You can see how the "knob" sticks through.







Compare that last shot with the end of the strut on my '88 Formula that hasn't had the top plate flipped over. If you have a good eye you'll notice that if the top plate was flipped over, the "knob" would hit the flat edge of the grill. A little trimming of this area would be required.



One factor which no one has touched upon is whether or not the action of the strut itself is affected by flipping over the top plate. At any given compressed height, the strut would be extended differently by at least an inch depending on which way the top plate had been installed. As I understand it, some struts (maybe all?) contain valves which have a variable rate depending on how far the struts are compressed. Monroe calls this "position sensitive damping". Is anyone brave enough to post an opinion on that?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-23-2013).]

Will NOV 23, 10:22 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
One factor which no one has touched upon is whether or not the action of the strut itself is affected by flipping over the top plate. At any given compressed height, the strut would be extended differently by at least an inch depending on which way the top plate had been installed. As I understand it, some struts (maybe all?) contain valves which have a variable rate depending on how far the struts are compressed. Monroe calls this "position sensitive damping". Is anyone brave enough to post an opinion on that?




If the strut is sitting at a certain point at stock ride height, and the car is lowered, the strut will then sit at a lower point in its travel. Flipping the plate would bring the strut back up to a higher point in its travel. If you lowered the car by the amount the static position of the strut shaft changes when the plate is flipped, then the strut would be at its design "zero" position with the car lowered around it.
RCR NOV 24, 08:40 AM
Cool thread.

One observation and one question.

I thought this was done to gain the extra strut travel on lowered cars, so the strut has more travel before bottoming out.

But, doesn't this allow the strut rod to go through the hood if/when the rubber fails?

Bob
fieroguru NOV 24, 09:32 AM

quote
Originally posted by RCR:
I thought this was done to gain the extra strut travel on lowered cars, so the strut has more travel before bottoming out.



Yes, the only reason to do this mod is to gain more strut range of motion in compression on a lowered fiero. No other need to do it



quote
Originally posted by RCR:
But, doesn't this allow the strut rod to go through the hood if/when the rubber fails?



No, the large washer at the bottom and the concave washer up top keep the strut shaft locked in the hat. The rubber just keeps it from moving side to side/front to back.
theogre NOV 24, 11:40 AM
Originally posted by fieroguru:
Yes, the only reason to do this mod is to gain more strut range of motion in compression on a lowered fiero. No other need to do it
Plus can affect strut's "road feel." Example Some shock/strut designs use/used slots cut into cylinder walls to make a "sweet spot" in the middle of travel. That slotted section gets a softer ride and Lower cars could mess up that.

No, the large washer at the bottom and the concave washer up top keep the strut shaft locked in the hat. The rubber just keeps it from moving side to side/front to back.
Is true only when rubber is bad.

Rust etc can make weld/metal on outside of bushing to fail and could cause above damage.

Get new hats for this reason, especially lowered cars and states that use high road salt in winters.
New hats available thru Monroe etc.
Patrick NOV 27, 09:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Will:

If the strut is sitting at a certain point at stock ride height, and the car is lowered, the strut will then sit at a lower point in its travel. Flipping the plate would bring the strut back up to a higher point in its travel. If you lowered the car by the amount the static position of the strut shaft changes when the plate is flipped, then the strut would be at its design "zero" position with the car lowered around it.



I agree 100% with what you've posted Will, but you didn't actually state how this possibly affects the performance and/or "feel" of the strut.

I think Ogre's on the right track below...


quote
Originally posted by theogre:

...can affect strut's "road feel." Example Some shock/strut designs use/used slots cut into cylinder walls to make a "sweet spot" in the middle of travel. That slotted section gets a softer ride and Lower cars could mess up that.



So stated another way... If the suspension is lowered with cut and/or shorter springs, the strut might have a stiffer feel to it due to where the now more compressed strut sits at rest.

In conclusion, it would appear then that struts with variable rate damping can retain their smooth riding "sweet spot" on a lowered car if the strut top mounting plate is flipped over and the strut is extended a bit. I imagine the same should occur with front shocks if a spacer is used between the bottom shock mount and the lower control arm. (That would also help prevent the front shocks from bottoming out as discussed HERE.)

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-21-2014).]

Steven Snyder NOV 28, 02:54 AM
Does any shock available for a Fiero even have position-sensitive damping? I seriously doubt it...