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| Brake Line & Fitting Sizes (Page 3/4) |
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85 SE VIN 9
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OCT 20, 04:09 PM
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RWDPLZ where did you get the connection block back in 2010? Is it possible to get another today? Now I have the lines, but I can't get the old connector out of the rear connection block, at least while it's on the car. It's recommended that I take the other lines off and bring the block inside to remove the fittings. The closest match doesn't have metric fittings. It would be nice to get this project complete in less than two years...lol
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RWDPLZ
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OCT 20, 04:44 PM
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If I remember correctly, I just started a WTB thread here in 'The Mall'. That or the junkyard.
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Jake_2m4
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NOV 18, 04:16 PM
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RWDPLZ - Thanks for all this info, you've got a positive from me. Last night, I replaced my front driver's side hardline with a 30 inch one from advance. (The 20 inch one might work but it looked a tad short) It already had the 10mm nuts on it and everything.
For anyone thinking about doing this, I would suggest buying the 6 dollar tube bender or renting the full tool set for the job. If you buy the lines with the nut and flares already done all you have to do is bend it as needed to fit. I had a little trouble with excess length, but just left it all under the master cylinder without bending the line enough to crimp anything.
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RWDPLZ
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NOV 18, 05:56 PM
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I've done custom lines too, like on a Tahoe where I had to reuse the oddball-sized fittings that go to the ABS pump. It's the best way to get a good quality professional job, unless you luck out and find one the exact length you need. Problem is, the only flaring tool I've found that works well is a Craftsman one. The cheap chinese ones just don't work, and I had a Blue Point one right off the Snap-On truck break the second time I used it.
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thesameguy
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NOV 19, 04:16 PM
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I've redone brake lines on a few cars, sometimes remedial, sometimes upgrades. Most recently I redid all the lines on my 1962 Falcon to accommodate a new master cylinder. After a lot of research I used copper-based brake line ("CuNiFeR" is one brand) and couldn't be happier with the result. The copper stuff isn't prone to rust or corrosion and is incredibly easy to form and run - getting it all the way down the driveshaft tunnel was painless. I bought a 25' roll of it from, of all places, Amazon.com but you can buy it just about anywhere that does brakes. The fittings were mostly sourced from Summit as they have a pretty good selection, but I had some leftovers from previous jobs and those were purchased from FedHillUSA, Hose and Fittings, and Pegasus Racing. FedHillUSA supplied a mess of ISO/bubble fittings when I did the lines on my XR4Ti.
FWIW, I use a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool that was like $300 and, turns out, not such a good investment. It's nice because it's portable and great for making repairs in situ, but as a tool for cranking out multiple reliable flares it's not my favorite. If I were doing it again, I'd probably buy one of the bench-mount flarers like Eastwood sells. They're also not cheap, but some auto parts stores rent them. Related, flaring that copper tube is INFINITELY easier than steel tube, so if you just need to knock out a couple, you may have luck with one of the Harbor Freight etc. hand tools.
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Dukeiboy
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MAR 23, 10:57 AM
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Hey RWDPLZ, I know this thread is really old but do you remember where you got that 3-way block from? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Thanks.
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Mark A. Klein
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MAR 23, 11:39 AM
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I don't mean to be disrespectful, but what ever happened to the old "Never use copper on a brake system" rule? Up to 2000 psi? on hydraulics?
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Mark A. Klein
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MAR 23, 11:41 AM
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I always used a propane torch to heat the ends of steel lines when re flaring. GM uses the hardest lines....  Replacement lines are much softer.
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RWDPLZ
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MAR 23, 12:25 PM
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The 3-way block I got from someone here, in 'The Mall' section. Just made a want to buy thread.
Conventional copper tubing as brake lines is a bad idea. AGS and other companies now make copper nickel alloy lines that are DOT approved. Haven't tried them myself.
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ArthurPeale
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JAN 25, 11:57 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by RWDPLZ:
The hoses at the calipers: They all use an M10 - 1.0 thread fitting |
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I've never worked with brake line before, so this will certainly be a learning experience.
The different thread fittings have me boggling. I know that eventually I'm going to replace all of the lines, but for now I'm simply trying to fix the brakes on the rear passenger side.
I removed the wheel well liner to access the water pump (which, as it turned out, did not actually afford me additional access) and it got hung up on the brake line. I went to unbolt from the wheel well and push it slightly out of the way, and it sheared off at the T. I barely touched it!
Then I went to unbolt the T, and the head sheared off on that, too. Again, barely touched it.
From my understanding, the hose from the caliper is an M10 1.0 thread - but, what kind of flare?
Until I can fix it, I figure to use a generic T fitting - will this do? https://www.amazon.com/3-Wa...reads/dp/B01KNGVKEA/
will this do for a starter package to patch things up? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01801G45A/
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