EVERYONE with a V6 please Read (Page 27/39)
Mr.PBody NOV 24, 11:36 PM
Bumpers for the n00bs. I am running one in my car with 0 ohms chassis resistance
currie66 NOV 25, 06:57 PM
rich wow holy crap what a change for the better thanks.
just to let others know mine is a 85 v6 with 50,000 miles
all of the electrical is just like new and this still helped in a big big way.
$Rich$ NOV 25, 09:35 PM
its good to see this thread going 4 years strong now
it really does make a noticable differance, even in the clean low milage cars
ill be adding some nice ones to my L67 car in the spring, and im going to put a few on my buick and see if it helps cure the slow windows in that aswell

its amazing it works in all vehicles with notacible results, its a big topic always on the bimmer forums witht he E36's have a factory trunk mount battery and it seems to help them guys out greatly

thanks for keepn the thread in circulation for all the new people that come and go

------------------

AIM:Onefast2M8
86 GT SC 3800 Intercooled
02 Jetta 1.8t

NiotaFiero DEC 13, 09:32 PM
I'm quite new to this forum and the world of FIERO so please be patient with me. Where is the EGR bolt?
Kuta DEC 31, 06:20 AM
It's on the passenger side (on the right side of the motor) right above the water-pump.
If you find the belts on the car you should be able to tell where it is from the 1st picture.


I spend a few hours tonight reading this whole thread, and am gonna see what AutoZone has,
hopefully some 4ga + ring terms for not too much. AutoZone is all that is open overnight.

The Problem [a bit of history]:
I got this car (86=GT,5spd) about a month ago and it had a high idle,
the guy replaced tps, and a few others before I bought it and replaced the egr tube.
Idle is down to 1100 but wavers 500-1000 every second, up and down.

I was reading all about vacuum leaks, replacing the map sensor, etc.,
nobody really sure with a definite answer to what the problem could be.

I am REALLY REALLY hoping this fixes it, from what I have read,
and am hopeful because I notice a VERY slight change of overhead cabin-light
aberration during the idle-hunt lowering, and the oil pressure flickers when that happens,
and other various electrical-seeming problems.

WISH ME LUCK PLEASE ! =)

off i go

[This message has been edited by Kuta (edited 12-31-2007).]

Kuta DEC 31, 07:57 AM
[posting a lot so i can add + to members]

I got 3 power lines,
2x 4ga 19"
1x 2ga 19"

That's all AutoZone had of the shortest lengths.

At first the guy tried telling me they didn't have anything except 10ga in the "wire" section,
then he stumbled into the power cables when he was talking about using jumper cables.

Each cable has a large ring @ the end, so some washers might be needed for chassis/egr bolt/strut connection.

I also got a "universal" side-post adapter which has 2 bolts on it for a clamp, but each bolt could be used with a ring-term,
and a "side-post bolt extender" so I can use the factory battery terminal, in addition to the "universal", for extra cables off the Neg.

I'm gonna go over all the pics & notes I took again, have some breakfast, and by then the sun will be out so hopefully there is enough light to install the 3 cables (it's very foggy right now).
Kuta DEC 31, 08:00 AM
[again, posting a lot so i can add + to members]

I probably won't get replies before I do the upgrade, and might be better off testing this on my own vehicle, however:

1. Is it better to connect the EGR-solenoid bolt directly to the battery, or daisy-chained with a cable from the bolt near the battery tray?
2. I notice $Rich$ might have changed his setup, from EGR->Neg & Chassis ->Neg (both direct connections into battery terminal). . .
to: Egr->Chassis & Chassis->Neg with Deck-hinge->Neg (daisy chain + addl)

Is this correct? Was there reason for the change?


The Transmission->Block wire is connected well, but I'll clean it off anyway. The wire is still flexible, but small.
If my 3-wires don't improve idle, I could get a long 4 gauge for the transmission to chassis, or directly to ground.

I really hope it does, though. Maybe I should replace that wire either way?
Kuta DEC 31, 11:33 AM
No luck.

Possibly when the ECM relearns everything it will be better, but the idle is the same,
right window so slow it's almost stuck, & everything else the same from what I can tell.

Would adding a strap from trans to chassis help, or replace the one from trans to block?

New battery?

It was worth a try, for $20.


/edit: i used a dremel to scrape ALL contact points, and existing grounds, down to bare metal.
The only thing is that the longer battery bolt stripped when I cranked it down, so the batt grounds are only hand-tight.
There is 100% contact, but there is not a lot of compression. Is that a problem? I can only think it might loosen, so I'll keep an eye on it.

[This message has been edited by Kuta (edited 12-31-2007).]

Andreas DK JAN 23, 09:55 AM
Great post.. thanks..!

i will definitely do that too...!
scorpion693 FEB 10, 04:22 PM
holy sh#t this works!!!!!!