EVERYONE with a V6 please Read (Page 24/39)
$Rich$ JUL 23, 06:44 PM
it wasnt just you,, every few weeks or so someone pm's me about it
timgray JUL 23, 08:32 PM
I would add one more thing.

Go out and buy some copper conductive grease and disconeect the grounds from your block, clean the connection point to super clean and shiney and then apply the grease then put the connection back on. From my past experience with a 2m4 the fiero benefits from this big time. IT limits the amount of corrosion and also gives you a better connection because of the copper in the grease getting smushed between the bolt and block.

Although almost all Fieros can do with new battery cables about every 5 years.
$Rich$ JUL 23, 10:09 PM
ues, i should add that it helps in the long run to use the copper grease or i just use the clear electro cundictive grease, the same stuff you should be using on your plug wire boots

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AIM:Onefast2M8
02 Jetta 1.8t
98 GTI 2.slow
02 CBR 954RR

never2old AUG 10, 11:34 PM
I just HAD to add this.
I was having , what I thought was a starter issue. After crawling under the car and dreading even trying to replace the starter I decided to give Rich's idea a try.
Up to this point I had been cranking the engine to where the battery would discharge.
Replaced the ground strap and NO MORE starting problems. Lights appear to be brighter, especially in the trunk, which I guess is where you would notice it first.
zmcdonal OCT 04, 05:38 PM
I added the ground from the battery to the EGR solenoid and it seemed to help alittle, but my gauges are still kinda dim, my windows are still pretty slow, i have to push the button for my door locks twice, my turn signals almost stop when i have the headlights on but when they are off it is kinda slow but not nearly as bad, and my headlights are dim as well. I think i may just need new headlights cause i have not replaced them since i have owned the car, but i dont know about the windows and gauges. It has a new alternator and battery if that helps. Any suggestions? Any other place that needs to be grounded that would help a little? Thanks
The ROK OCT 04, 09:02 PM
When you do this do you have to disconect the neg side 1st?
cropduster OCT 19, 10:58 PM
Disconnecting the negative cable first is a good idea because that way if the wrench hits anything, no sparks! You can almost weld with the amps a battery puts out!! Now the positive cable can be disconnected (if you need to clean it) and if the wrench hits the frame, no sparks. Reconnect positive first, then negative.
cropduster OCT 19, 11:05 PM
Hey, I'm doing this mod and looking at all this negative cable, grounding and all then I looked at the puny positive wire. The large cable goes directly to the starter and nowhere else. The smaller wire, and I mean smaller! goes to power ALL of the car's power. Doesn't that seem kind of a small wire with headlights, wiper, A/C on, cooling fan, etc all at the same time?? Am I missing something or would it be a good idea to run another positive wire to the fuse block? Whatcha think out there?
mark85GTv6 OCT 21, 05:55 PM
great post!!!


thankx
LT-5Fiero OCT 22, 09:19 AM

quote
Originally posted by bushroot:

Sport Compact Car did an article on this a while back. They were actually showing horsepower gains by using better grounding to the engine block.



They were grounding the ignition coils on their K20 engine, which has a coil-on-plug DIS, something I never thought of on my Mazda6 when I added the MSD Stacker 8 box. Grounding something that is the basis of making power, can make you more power, you see they only got 1 to 2 WHP more, which could very well be dismissed as a difference in dyno conditions (Hot Rod or CHP did an article on dyno tricks that netted anywhere from 1 to 2 WHP to 13 WHP more). Though these types of grounds here are for fixing problems and to prevent electrolysis of the cooling system. Ever had severe and constant water pump or heater core failures on an older car? More than likely a bad ground somewhere and your coolant carried an electrical charge.