radiator air flow (Page 2/2) 82-T/A [At Work] AUG 15, 07:59 AM I've said this in a few threads, but I think it can really help so you know what you should expect from the Fiero's cooling system when it's working properly. I used to drive 1987 Fiero SE / V6 all the time in the late 90s and early 2000s. When I was driving it regularly, I could leave it parked in a parking lot... at idle, and it would literally run and the radiator fan would never even come on. This was in South Florida, when it was in the high 80s (but in the shade) with heavy humidity. The engine would idle at a nice 850-900 rpms, and the motor was as cool as could be. I had a 180 degree thermostat, and the temperature gauge would literally sit at what was the 180 degree temperature mark. It was fantastic. I know the radiator fan worked, because then if I started driving it like crazy and stopped at a light, the radiator fan would come on... but that temperature gauge rarely, rarely went above the 180 temperature mark. Here's what it was: - Stock 2.8 V6/60 - Aftermarket (modern) catalytic converter - Accel Super Coil - Hogged out exhaust manifolds - 180 degree thermostat - All original and stock radiator - Fresh coolant 50/50 mix - Redline Water Wetter additive The thing about the Fiero (which I think I mention above) is... because it has the radiator in the front and the engine in the back, it has nearly triple the amount of cooling capacity that would otherwise exist in just the lines itself. In a normal front-engined car, the coolant lines are usually no more than 2-feet each, top and bottom. On the Fiero, those coolant lines are in some cases 9-10 feet long, allowing 4-5 more quarts of coolant than a traditional car would have. It's a little extra work on the water pump, but man... let me tell you, the Fiero should run really cool, even when it's sitting still. If it were me, first thing I'd do is check the condition of the steel tubes running under the car's thresholds. I'd then remove the radiator and flush it like crazy, or replace it with a 4-core. I'd then also get a 180 degree thermostat since I know you live in Israel... and while it may not have the same humidity... you have the same heat we have here. With all of that, the car should run pretty cool. They also sell "radiator flush" solutions. I would run that in my car (also) for a little bit (usually 30 minutes, but read the instructions), and then put all new coolant in it. Hope that helps! Stingray92 AUG 15, 11:01 PM Figured I post a couple photos as I have the hood off at the moment. Air baffles, plastic pieces, yeah. Do they work? In short yes, it's about pressure drop and path of least resistance. Yes a condenser and radiator adds to the resistive force of air passing from one to another but without a way to direct it into the path your trying to cool? PITW I guess. Patrick AUG 15, 11:40 PM quote Originally posted by Stingray92: Figured I post a couple photos as I have the hood off at the moment. Your fan shroud isn't normally set back from the radiator is it? 1985 Fiero GT AUG 15, 11:58 PM quote Originally posted by Patrick: Your fan shroud isn't normally set back from the radiator is it? And I don't see the air dam on the front picture, with the fan shroud like that there's less room for air to make it's way down and out, not to mention air can just circulate around the fan without coming through the radiator, so that will decrease the airflow when stopped, and not having the air dam will decrease the airflow when moving. sleek fiero AUG 16, 12:00 AM Hi Patrick I was going to ask the same thing..By the way at inland kenworth we have been using the vacuum fill system from snap-on for at least 15 years. Cummins requires it to be done this way for warranty.. It leaves no chance for an air bubble to be trapped and cause overheat. I haven't tried on my GT but I am sure it would put all other fill methods to shame. Its a simple device that uses compressed air to power it sleek Stingray92 AUG 16, 06:49 AM quote Originally posted by Patrick: Your fan shroud isn't normally set back from the radiator is it? correct, I'm looking for the passenger side plastic backing part of the baffle. I've got t the rubber seals from the Fiero Store. Stingray92 AUG 16, 06:51 AM quote Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT: And I don't see the air dam on the front picture, with the fan shroud like that there's less room for air to make it's way down and out, not to mention air can just circulate around the fan without coming through the radiator, so that will decrease the airflow when stopped, and not having the air dam will decrease the airflow when moving. The air dam is currently unbolted, still a fair amount to re-install... 1985 Fiero GT AUG 16, 08:30 AM quote Originally posted by Stingray92: The air dam is currently unbolted, still a fair amount to re-install... Ok, well with the shroud and air dam installed correctly, there shouldn't be any overheating. Gauges and sensors can lie, if you have one, you can use an infrared contactless thermometer on coolant hoses up front and in the engine bay to see if it confirms the temperatures your other gauge is showing. if it is really overheating, then it's either a bent or collapsed hose/pipe, or something gunking up the cooling system. Patrick AUG 16, 04:40 PM quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: ...at inland kenworth we have been using the vacuum fill system from snap-on for at least 15 years. Cummins requires it to be done this way for warranty.. It leaves no chance for an air bubble to be trapped and cause overheat. I haven't tried on my GT but I am sure it would put all other fill methods to shame. Its a simple device that uses compressed air to power it But being sold by Snap-on, it's probably rather pricey. I have no doubt that this vacuum device works great for what it does, but I suspect it's something over and above the need of the average backyard mechanic (mostly due to its price).