

 |
No Start / No Crank With Clunking Sound (Page 2/2) |
|
1985 Fiero GT
|
MAR 18, 09:47 PM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
The point I've been trying to make (with apparently no success) is that other than the fuel pump priming for two seconds, there should not be any other sound at all (clunking or otherwise) when the key is turned with the clutch not depressed. The clutch safety switch should be preventing any power from getting to the solenoid/starter.
|
|
In the first post it says there is a single clunk when key is turned to start and a clunk when key is released with the clutch pedal depressed (no cranking, just clunk), and the 2 clunks are quieter but still there when clutch is not depressed. I would assume there is a clutch switch bypass (says switch is connected, but maybe it's broken or something like that), and the starter motor itself isn't being engaged, just the solenoid thing on top of the motor, single clunk on, single clunk off, I don't know why clutch position would effect anything, or if it is unrelated.[This message has been edited by 1985 Fiero GT (edited 03-18-2025).]
|
|
|
Noah3.0
|
MAR 22, 03:37 PM
|
|
Thank you again to everyone who has responded! I did some more investigating. It does look like my clutch safety switch was bypassed by the previous owner.
The new clutch kit I installed was the same as the LuK set that was in the car originally, so I think I should be fine there.
I pulled the new starter off the car and hooked it directly to the battery using a remote start switch and jumper cables. The starter itself works fine.
While the starter was still installed, I probed around with a multimeter. Checking between the starter body and the large lug on the solenoid, I saw that the voltage read 0.0V. Furthermore, I discovered a braided copper ground strap that was broken off at one end.
So this does seem to be an electrical problem -- either the 12V feed from the battery isn't reaching the starter or that ground strap is the culprit.
If anyone has advice from this end, I would really appreciate it.
|
|
|
Patrick
|
MAR 22, 04:02 PM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by Noah3.0:
Checking between the starter body and the large lug on the solenoid, I saw that the voltage read 0.0V.
|
|
What's the voltage at the end of the thick battery cable on the solenoid that comes from the positive of the battery? If it's not the same as the voltage directly off the battery, then either the cable is bad or the battery connection (positive and/or negative) is bad.
|
|
|
Noah3.0
|
MAR 25, 06:22 PM
|
|
I was able to run the starter on the car by directly running it off a battery with a remote start switch. It cranks well, so in terms of clearance and shimming, looks like everything is all good there.
I got some new leads for my multimeter and did a continuity test between the 12V cable to the battery and the ring terminal for the starter lug. Nothing. Should have checked the simplest part first. Oh well.
Looks like I'm tearing into the harness to find a bad splice. Thank you everyone for the help!
|
|

 |
|