[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 01-15-2025).]

Do you have a can of Electronic Cleaner?

If I was you, I would unplug/disconnect, clean, reconnect and disconnect again a few couples of any ignition connectors and looking for any sight of corroded contacts/terminals.

*Pickup Coil to ICM, the two plugs at the ICM, both Coil plugs, etc. / Cleaning and reseating those connectors a few times might be the problem

As Dennis said, "You can test the coil with an ohmmeter."

quote Dennis LaGrua: When you engine is hot and refuses to start use an assistant to crank it over while you check the pulses going to the coil. If you do not have pulses then the module, or pickup is bad. If you can read pulses it is the coil.

Watch the tach when cranking the engine; if the tach doesn't move, you're not getting pulses from the distributor. {module / pickup}

If the ICM is iffy, see if your local auto store can test it...

This is a step-by-step testing procedure for the ignition system and module:
How To Test The GM Distributor Mounted Ignition Module
https://easyautodiagnostics...or-mounted-icm-tests

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 01-15-2025).]

quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut: Do you have a can of Electronic Cleaner? If I was you, I would unplug/disconnect, clean, reconnect and disconnect again a few couples of any ignition connectors and looking for any sight of corroded contacts/terminals. *Pickup Coil to ICM, the two plugs at the ICM, both Coil plugs, etc. / Cleaning and reseating those connectors a few times might be the problem As Dennis said, "You can test the coil with an ohmmeter." Watch the tach when cranking the engine; if the tach doesn't move, you're not getting pulses from the distributor. {module / pickup} If the ICM is iffy, see if your local auto store can test it... This is a step-by-step testing procedure for the ignition system and module: How To Test The GM Distributor Mounted Ignition Module https://easyautodiagnostics...or-mounted-icm-tests

Step 1: Infinite
Step 2: 0-.2Ohms
Step 3: 7.42KOhms

This coil (GM GENUINE 19418995) was installed fall 2023 when the other one blew out after pairing it with low ohm Taylor cables. (not the popular swap ones that lots of people here recommend. After that I went back to the popular Taylor Spiro-Pro Spark Plug Wire 74224). Gonna hose down the connections, but there is no corrosion.

Gonna then do the ICM tests.

Good Night.

Edit: even using the pigtail from coil to distributor from TFS that I got when I ordered the new Coil.

[This message has been edited by WonderBoy (edited 01-15-2025).]

Well, Fiero sports fans, it appears that it was the ICM that struck out and I sent it pack'n to the trash in the same box the new one came in. Got a CarQuest one from Advance Auto for $50 yesterday after work, threw it in and has been better than ever. Startup is quick. More steady rpm/tack idle/drive. I just kept holding on to my faith that a Genuine GM ICM wouldn't/couldn't/SHOULDN'T fail after 3 years. That and me being an electronics tinkerer, the many surface mount repairs were found by using a can of freeze spray. But probably was my fault for using low ohm spark plug wires for about a year, which then popped my Genuine GM Coil. The 2 days of PTO were not a total loss. Sure, I may have now broken more plastic clips on the original connectors than what was anticipated, but who's counting? Because I decided I wanted to look at my FPR, I was able to take care of a future project (out of sequence of other maintenance) by replacing the injectors. New gaskets and o-ring for everyone! The engine bay no longer has the sounds of noisy solenoids tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic'ing. Got a bit of acceleration back out of it too.

Cliff:
Once I find my others that are working in my storage locker, I'll add one to my emergency roadside repair container in the trunk. And I know the perfect one, the ORIGINAL that came with the car from the original corroded 'star-tang' distributor. Funny, the many threads that have said this same thing. Guess not a joke.

Patrick:
Rest assured, heat sink compound was used in a thin even layer. Bob Ross guided my fingers holding the razor blade.
Dielectric grease? Always.

Now I might need to start another thread on my steering, but let me first use the Fiero Forum's world famous *Search* function to see what I can find first.

Thanks all. Virtual beers for all

*Glad the 2 small pieces of black split loom tubing that fell into injector port for cylinder 5 didn't cause a problem... yet*

[This message has been edited by WonderBoy (edited 01-17-2025).]