Lowering (Page 2/2)
LS4FieroGuy OCT 07, 09:47 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:


No, the weight of the car is held by the springs.
Cutting them half of a coil won't affect ride harshness significantly or make your suspension feel loose.
It would be a good idea to modify the front suspension bump stops to prevent bottoming out the front suspension.

Do not use heat to cut the springs, use a saw.



So would i cut all four springs 1 inch shorter? And would I just cut the bump stops an inch? And would I cut the springson the top or bottom? Thanks.

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Joshua Seeger

82-T/A [At Work] OCT 07, 10:07 PM

Eiback Fiero Lowering Springs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164124182471
Patrick OCT 07, 11:42 PM

LS4FieroGuy, why don't you tell us what year Fiero you plan to be working on... as it makes a difference!
LS4FieroGuy OCT 08, 01:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


LS4FieroGuy, why don't you tell us what year Fiero you plan to be working on... as it makes a difference!



Yeah ofc! It's an 88 SE.
fieroguru OCT 08, 07:09 AM

quote
Originally posted by LS4FieroGuy:
So would i cut all four springs 1 inch shorter? And would I just cut the bump stops an inch? And would I cut the springson the top or bottom? Thanks.



In the front: https://fieroguruperformance.com/?page_id=1157
The springs are in the middle of the lower control arm, so 1" cut on the spring = 2" lowering of the car. You can always cut more, but can't add it back, so start with cutting 1/2 to 3/4 of the top of bottom coil with a cut off disk. Then install the cut end facing down and make sure it rests in the recessed groove in the lower control arm.

If you are running KYB shocks, they are longer than stock and with the shorter bump stop, you will want to add spacers between the shock t-bar and the lower control arm. Using 3/8" nuts as spacers works, or you can get some 1/2" tall spacers. This keeps the shock from bottoming out internally before the bump stop hits.


You can trim the stock bump stop, but Dorman 31053 is a near bolt in solution. Just need to enlarge the bolt hole in the lower control arm slightly (I think to 3/8") and it drops right in. I swapped to these on my car earlier this year.


For the rear, again start with smaller cuts and work up to the amount of lowering. The cuts have to be from the top larger diameter of the spring as the lower portion has to rest in the lower spring perch.

As an alternative, cut down front springs can work in the rear if you make a flat plate with a centering ring for the top of the spring. This will give you a stiffer spring rate (220ish vs 145).


[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-08-2024).]

LS4FieroGuy OCT 11, 03:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


In the front: https://fieroguruperformance.com/?page_id=1157
The springs are in the middle of the lower control arm, so 1" cut on the spring = 2" lowering of the car. You can always cut more, but can't add it back, so start with cutting 1/2 to 3/4 of the top of bottom coil with a cut off disk. Then install the cut end facing down and make sure it rests in the recessed groove in the lower control arm.

If you are running KYB shocks, they are longer than stock and with the shorter bump stop, you will want to add spacers between the shock t-bar and the lower control arm. Using 3/8" nuts as spacers works, or you can get some 1/2" tall spacers. This keeps the shock from bottoming out internally before the bump stop hits.


You can trim the stock bump stop, but Dorman 31053 is a near bolt in solution. Just need to enlarge the bolt hole in the lower control arm slightly (I think to 3/8") and it drops right in. I swapped to these on my car earlier this year.


For the rear, again start with smaller cuts and work up to the amount of lowering. The cuts have to be from the top larger diameter of the spring as the lower portion has to rest in the lower spring perch.

As an alternative, cut down front springs can work in the rear if you make a flat plate with a centering ring for the top of the spring. This will give you a stiffer spring rate (220ish vs 145).







So how much would I have to cut the rear springs? Would I cut the rear the same as the front?
Yorgle OCT 11, 04:17 PM
I've cut springs on several cars over the years and from what I recall, there's no practical way to anticipate how much a car will drop- it's not a 1:1 ratio. I wouldn't do it if I was looking to drop more than 3/4 inch or so. Springs get stiffer the shorter they are and the more they are compressed, but generally, 1/4-1/2 a coil at a time is a safe way to to do it. Sure, it's a pain to remove, cut, reinstall, measure, repeat, but you can always cut more off- you can't add it back.
LS4FieroGuy OCT 14, 01:59 AM

quote
Originally posted by Yorgle:

I've cut springs on several cars over the years and from what I recall, there's no practical way to anticipate how much a car will drop- it's not a 1:1 ratio. I wouldn't do it if I was looking to drop more than 3/4 inch or so. Springs get stiffer the shorter they are and the more they are compressed, but generally, 1/4-1/2 a coil at a time is a safe way to to do it. Sure, it's a pain to remove, cut, reinstall, measure, repeat, but you can always cut more off- you can't add it back.



So I guess my main question is to lower the car evenly do I cut the front springs and rear springs the same amount?

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Joshua Seeger

1985 Fiero GT OCT 14, 08:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by LS4FieroGuy:


So I guess my main question is to lower the car evenly do I cut the front springs and rear springs the same amount?




Maybe, maybe not, what people have been saying is to cut them a little at a time until you are satisfied, get the front where you like it, then get the rear where you like it, by doing several small cuts instead of one big cut.
cliffw OCT 14, 07:26 PM
Why do you want to lower your Fiero ? To fill in the wheel well / tire gap ?

[This message has been edited by cliffw (edited 10-14-2024).]