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| Cooling System Trouble Shooting (Page 2/3) |
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Aaron.Russell
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JUN 27, 05:03 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
A switch Close should be 0Ω but iffy meter or leads can make that lie. More so w/ cheap meters.
A switch Open should be ∞ Ω often OL on dig meters
The switch Plug on the car can Test good but not making contact on the switch.
Not sure if or how the plug is made for taking apart if can do that.
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I am definitely using a cheap meter.
Plug seems good, can feel friction of it going into the switch. Not a fool proof test, but I can tell it is making some sort of connecting, just not how well.
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Patrick
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JUN 27, 05:08 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Aaron.Russell:
Unfortunately I am not 100% sure if I have actually gotten to the correct temp.
Like I mentioned I think the gauge is right, or at least kinda close. That purely a hunch though. It's of course sketchy watching the car climb well into the red.
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Unless coolant starts puking out of the reservoir, I suspect you simply haven't gotten the engine hot enough. A scan tool (and/or WinALDL) would tell you the actual temperature of the coolant. The dash temperature gauge is just not reliable enough.
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Aaron.Russell
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JUN 27, 05:34 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Unless coolant starts puking out of the reservoir, I suspect you simply haven't gotten the engine hot enough. A scan tool (and/or WinALDL) would tell you the actual temperature of the coolant. The dash temperature gauge is just not reliable enough. |
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Yeah I absolutely haven't gone that far with it. I think I'll go out and start it now and just let it run for longer than I have in the past.
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KN48Racing
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JUN 27, 06:40 PM
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Not to steal a thread but coincidentally I just created an account for guidance on the exact same issue (longtime listener, first time caller). Fan runs when jumped and/or A/C on, new relay, new fan switch pigtail, and new fan switch.
I’ll run it praying the fan kicks on and I’ll pop on the A/C when I hear bubbles from the reservoir.
Last resort I’m trying tomorrow is cutting the pigtail and poking my test light into the switch socket to the remaining hot wire to see if I can get it to run.
Really trying to not pull the fan switch again, my luck I’ll strip the threads on the intake valley and I’ll be in for a much bigger project. It’s been quite the headache getting this Fiero running again, but this forum has definitely eased the pain for sure!
-Kyle
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Patrick
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JUN 27, 06:51 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by KN48Racing:
I’ll run it praying the fan kicks on and I’ll pop on the A/C when I hear bubbles from the reservoir.
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Keep in mind that every time the engine heats up, coolant flows into the reservoir. (Should not be "bubbles" though, with a properly burped system.) And when the engine cools down, coolant is drawn back out of the reservoir and into the rest of the system. It's critical that the reservoir never runs dry... otherwise air gets sucked into the coolant system... which creates problems.
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KN48Racing
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JUN 27, 08:32 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Keep in mind that every time the engine heats up, coolant flows into the reservoir. (Should not be "bubbles" though, with a properly burped system.) And when the engine cools down, coolant is drawn back out of the reservoir and into the rest of the system. It's critical that the reservoir never runs dry... otherwise air gets sucked into the coolant system... which creates problems. |
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Appreciate that! I might have misspoken. It’s not bubbles I see, it’s the gurgling-overheating sound. Reservoir never runs dry, this at the point where the temp gauge starts getting into the red
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Vintage-Nut
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JUN 27, 10:44 PM
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| quote | Aaron.Russell:
Same reading with another switch.
Unfortunately I am not 100% sure if I have actually gotten to the correct temp. |
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Another fan switch test if you want to try and you're careful:
The fan switch can be verified if the sensor is heated to ~235-degrees
With the meter leads attached; slowly heat the switch with a torch.
A 'good' switch will 'close' the circuit which you can verify with the ohmmeter.
And again, be careful and don't burn your meter leads OR your fingers... 
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Patrick
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JUN 27, 11:21 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by KN48Racing:
It’s not bubbles I see, it’s the gurgling-overheating sound.
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"overheating"? Based on what?
| quote | Originally posted by KN48Racing:
...this at the point where the temp gauge starts getting into the red
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As stated here many times over the years... you can't go by the temperature reading on the factory gauge. It's basically only valid for indicating when the temperature deviates from where it normally resides (with a warmed up engine).[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-27-2024).]
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Vintage-Nut
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JUN 28, 09:26 AM
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| quote | Aaron.Russell:
The fan DOES turn on when I ground the fan switch. / I have not put any Teflon tape on threads of any of them. / I think the {coolant} gauge is right, or at least kinda close. |
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Aaron,
Before the coolant gauge climbs into the red again, try this:
On a cold start, take hold on the rubber radiator input hose {driver side} and feel for the hose temperature increase {when the thermostat opens} which is 195-degrees.
Read your coolant gauge at this point; when my 195-degree thermostat opens, my coolant gauge reads 175-degrees.
*IF you don't feel the radiator input hose getting hotter, perhaps your thermostat is 'stuck' closed............
*IF your coolant gauge is really off from the 195-degree point, maybe start with the sensor: GM 25036809 / AC Delco 213-71 / Standard Ignition TS-168 (Aftermarket: Delphi TS10051)
Also, can you tell us if the coolant gauge will climb into the red WITH the fan ON?
EDIT:
Another subject, Replace the Factory Fan Switch {235-degree} with a lower temperature.
Many members brought Rodney's 210/200 degree switch to kick the fan on sooner.....
https://rodneydickman.com/p...o.php?products_id=88[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 06-28-2024).]
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theogre
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JUN 28, 08:21 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:
Another fan switch test if you want to try and you're careful:
The fan switch can be verified if the sensor is heated to ~235-degrees
With the meter leads attached; slowly heat the switch with a torch.
A 'good' switch will 'close' the circuit which you can verify with the ohmmeter.
And again, be careful and don't burn your meter leads OR your fingers... |
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Do Not to that. The stress for heating w/ fame or heat gun can kill any good part.
Heat w/ cooking oil on a stove & hold it w/ grill togs & related to keep oil from getting on the plastic. Can try tie the part to wood scrap. the end should by in oil started "cold" because if some are "low temp," will close way sooner then 235°F.
When done, let it sit in air to cool. Don't dip in tap water etc because that shock the part too.
If is a Gas Stove then the togs etc can get hot in other spots beside at the end. Depending how togs etc are made, even parts of handle can get hot holding the part to heat up.
Inductive Stove may not work as probes etc will "listen" to it even if too far away to heat up.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 06-28-2024).]
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