hot cooling lines (Page 2/2)
itzikbns JUN 26, 01:55 AM
Hi,
I have found and order a product that will allow replacing the old foam without disassembling the pipes

https://www.aliexpress.com/...in.33.21ef180240dPs3
82-T/A [At Work] JUN 26, 07:46 AM
HI Itzikbns, I've never been to Israel, but I know here in the states we have large hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot. There, you can purchase A/C line insulation. It looks like this:




It's effectively identical to what's already on the Fiero's cooling pipes already. They have different interior and exterior diameters, so you'll just want to figure out what the correct size shoudl be. In either case, the insulation has a slit down the center, and you can slide it on on one side, and then remove the adhesive backing and stick the two sides together. It should last, but you may want to run a few zip ties every 6"s or so to keep it from separating while it's in the car. This is what I plan to do when I get to that point with my daughter's car.

As someone mentioned, there should be 4 pipes down there. One set is for the heater core, in which case the FEED line (hottest line) should be insulated so that your heater core works. The other set is for the A/C, the pressure line (coolest line) should have insulation on it to ensure that the cold temperature makes it to the fan box.
theogre JUN 26, 08:02 AM
⚠️ If that holds road crap & "Water" in it...
Aluminum tubing will hate this & often sooner not latter. Can fail @ the steel brackets etc as "water" is electrolyte eats those areas fast.

Example: see http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146198.html Hidden Fuel and Coolant Leaks

Is Why I said HD Close Cell Foam because "water" etc doesn't go thru it.

That & others Might work in the Engine bay for some vehicles, the pipes are Under the car & gets hit hard enough to push crap thru any tiny hole.
Sim problem w/ people using most Exhaust wraps then wonder why the pipes Fail. "Water" getting in when cool + E-pipes get way hot even "glowing" causes more rust & stress.
theogre JUN 26, 08:47 AM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
As someone mentioned, there should be 4 pipes down there. One set is for the heater core, in which case the FEED line (hottest line) should be insulated so that your heater core works. The other set is for the A/C, the pressure line (coolest line) should have insulation on it to ensure that the cold temperature makes it to the fan box.

You & others are Wrong.
AC lines are:
Hot Compress Refrigerant from the Compressor.
"Cold" Return line from the Evaporator.

Has Nothing to do w/ AC getting cold.

Hot line Maybe Insulated to stop heating other things like Fuel Tank. Most systems the High Side is rarely have insulation on lines.
"Cold" return line on Low side in nearly all systems is Insulated for several things but obvious to most prevent Condensate that "leak" on everything. I'm told helps efficacy as long return can suck in more Heat making Compressor & Condenser working harder to cool the Evaporator.

Are Correct that in Fiero, Heat loop to the Core is Insulated just because that line is Metal & Long to the Core & can get very cold in winter so Core never gets Hot as need to be. About the only other vehicle w/ long heater pipes I know of are Heater in the back of School buses etc are plumbed into the engine cooling system.
Return Line is just Plastic Coated to prevent "rust" on outside.
itzikbns JUN 26, 11:59 AM
I just noticed that my link does not lead to the product , hear is the image, it has a fiberglass layer and looks like easy to install


itzikbns JUL 19, 09:37 AM
I assembled the fiberglass covers, they have exalent heat protection, up to 1300 f and were easy to use, I think it's not too shabby....