Headlight motor not stopping (Page 2/2)
theogre MAR 04, 04:02 PM

quote
Originally posted by 1985 Fiero GT:
It's true that gen 1 system can be hard to fix and the green gen 2 is better, (<-- fix auto spell), but all available parts for it from the Fiero store, gears, bumpers, relays, add up to well less then $200, if the limit switches are good, and the motor assembly itself is good, then that is much cheaper to do a full rebuild then buying $180 with of motor, and $600 with of controller, then figure out the wiring, or start with junkyard motors and controller that may also not work, which is the whole reason to go to the green 1 system, to get new parts. Personally if the electrical side of the gen 1 motors are ok. Which these apparently are, you could rebuild the gen 1 motor to new spec, and spend a fraction of the cost.

Something I think I would like to see someone make, is a headlight switch with a built in timer, when you press off, it applies the voltage to the down wire for, say 10 seconds, then cuts off all power, then when you go up, same thing 10 seconds on, before cutting the power, even if you had twitchy headlights, you could run them for years like that, wouldn't drain your battery much.

"On Paper" the Gen1 are "Cheap" to rebuild... But in reality does Not work long for most then a bit later often they sold/trade-in or junk the car before had to deal w/ HL problems again.

As to Timer, Very good way to start a Fire. While GM Gen2 has a 5 sec timer is only as a backup and even that can cause big problems. IOW if Gen2 timer runs expect model &/or motor(s) are dead.
Normal Power Draw is ~ 4a but anything force a Stall then Motors can draw way more then the breaker in the motor. Tripping a Thermal Breaker takes way more time and why not only the battery dries but motor often have major damage if not Totally dies too when have "twitchy" problems. Any type Breakers HATES tripping to start but Thermal auto reset often burns when have that problem but most people have no clue and try to "rebuild" them anyway because of post here etc saying it's easy & safe. Is often same fools saying can use a Breaker as a Switch to run lights & more in a shop then wonders why breaker fries or even the Load Center dies along w/ the breaker.
buddycraigg MAR 05, 12:32 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:



We will have to agree to disagree.
retrokid1983 MAR 17, 09:05 AM
Got the Fiero over to my workshop at my home to investigate. Cleaned up all the electrical contacts, then to the motor. The bar that lifts the switch for the raised position moves as shown here.

https://youtube.com/shorts/...?si=4F6mmwZyjfaCmOp6

The bar for the closed position doesn't move and hence the motor doesn't switch off when you drop the headlights

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.


Is rebuilding it an easy process or am I just best trying to track one down? UK based

[This message has been edited by retrokid1983 (edited 03-17-2024).]

theogre MAR 17, 01:37 PM
Again... Motor keeps spinning then gears or other parts are "dead" letting the motor run.

The "bar" only moves when @ end of travel or the lift is jammed so the gears are stalled & motor "climbs" up/down 1 of them & motor shaft force the "bar" to hit a switch.

Finding "good" used Gen1 often soon have same problem Or already did & was "Fix"/"rebuild" by anyone.

Ignore the above saying can "rebuild cheap" because for a start need to buy whatever from US vendor(s) then add Shipping & VAT & maybe other Taxes/Fees to import parts to UK. And if the vendor does not fill out shipping forms right, you may take days to months more waiting or never get product as your dealing w/ US & UK Customs that either or both may delay or block the package. For US readers VAT is Value Added Tax & added like US Sales Tax but often isn't same depending on product & can be even Higher then NYC Sales Tax 1 of the highest. I have to deal w/ same problems for international shipping between offices in same company plus shipping, broker fees, taxes & other fees can be high to much higher the actual cost of the part.

If you "rebuild" Gen1 motors often does not last long then trying to fix again adding more time & money eaten & maybe find other thing(s) that make them fail in the first place.

Example: Doors & Lift have bearings of different types & most should Never get Oil/Grease because Plastic parts Hate most lubes including most "plastic safe" lubes because most draw every kind of dirt that in turn "eat" the plastic bearings then dead bearing for that & other reasons puts bigger loads on the motors.

One "Bearing Set" on the doors & lifts...

Red are main "bearings." Blue is a "backup" only maybe connect when full open.
If those parts are damage/gone for any reason then whole lift assem &/or doors will have problems not just the motors. The Door Strips is likely Polypropylene & can be fix/make locally. If the lift's bumps have crap stuck into them then you must remove that & with as little damage doing so.

Some lube plastic w/ Dry or Wet Teflon because believe "Teflon is Inert" etc but many of them hate Plastic because have chemicals besides the PTFE that the problem. Many of these will say on the label Do Not use it on plastic but many have nothing or say that is safe for plastic.
retrokid1983 MAR 17, 04:18 PM
Fortunately my Wife works for a company that have an office in Maryland. Whilst this may take longer waiting for someone to travel back, it would avoid VAT.
buddycraigg MAR 17, 11:54 PM
the upper bar activates the contacts when it goes in the down direction.
retrokid1983 MAR 18, 08:03 AM
Correct, that's the part that's not working. I haven't split the motor open yet without having the repair kit. Need to see what's causing that bar not to move.
fierofool MAR 18, 09:17 PM
If the bar isn't moving, likely the main gear inside is stripped where the motor stops in the down position so the motor can't rise to open the breaker. The metal gears with bump stops can be obtained from Rodney Dickman. Order them quickly as he's closing his business.

https://rodneydickman.com/p....php?products_id=230
buddycraigg MAR 21, 05:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by retrokid1983:

Correct, that's the part that's not working. I haven't split the motor open yet without having the repair kit. Need to see what's causing that bar not to move.



You have to spin the knob 122 times for the head light bucket to move all the way to the open/closed position.
Once it is bound up, then the armature will force itself the other direction.