Powdercoating at home (Page 2/2) qwikgta JAN 06, 07:53 PM don't do the rims first. do some add parts and get the process down. the first few things my friend did in his garage were brackets and stuff and they did not come out perfect. moved up to valve covers and even those were not spot on. the process is not as easy as it looks. BingB JAN 08, 09:54 AM quote Originally posted by qwikgta: don't do the rims first. This is golden rule for me on most projects. No matter how much you research and prepare the first time you do anything you are still learning. 82-T/A [At Work] JAN 08, 08:03 PM quote Originally posted by BingB: This is golden rule for me on most projects. No matter how much you research and prepare the first time you do anything you are still learning. I'm going to try to find the video, but I was thinking about doing this myself and found a YouTube video of someone doing exactly this, and in an oven. It came out really well... they were the GT-style wheels and it was for an 88. I've never done it myself, but the key was all about the preparation so that the material would adhere evenly properly when he sprayed it on. The thing is though, he didn't powder-coat the entire rim like most people do. He used tape and some kind of spray to prevent it from sticking in certain areas... but he was able to use a big household oven in his garage. I'm hoping the person responds... because it was a Fiero video. fieroguru JAN 09, 07:01 AM 5 big things to be aware of: 1. Surface must be 100% free of any paint or coating - the electrical charge to make the powder stick doesn't work on non-conductive material and will leave a divot. I had some issues with red paint transfer from the rack in the sand blast cabinet transferring to my parts has they were moved around on the sand black rack. These had to be scraped off to avoid coating surface issues. 2. Porous material like aluminum should be heat cycled as part of the cleaning process. If oily contaminates are going to come out the pores with 400 degrees is applied to it, you want to make this happen and clean the part again before applying powder. If it happens while the part is curing, it will have an irregular surface. 3. Scratches from surface prep can show through the coating, sand blasting tends to leave a more uniform surface. 4. Dirt/debris in the powder or in your work area needs to be eliminated or it can find its way into the powder surface and leave bumps or divots. 5. Temperature used and time in the oven can change the color slightly - especially on light colors - so consistency in the process is needed to get the same color across batches of parts.