86 rear calipers (Page 2/3)
ArthurPeale NOV 15, 01:43 PM
I also replied on your Facebook post, but it's worth repeating here, also.

Assuming all new parts - calipers, rotors, pads - it's possible that your piston is actually in all of the way, but that the pads are too thick.

I experienced this firsthand when I first started this hobby. I couldn't understand what I was doing wrong.

turns out...I wasn't. Some pads are simply just a tiny bit thicker than others. Not a problem on rotors with wear, but on a brand new rotor it will not work.

If you search my profile I've posted which pads I've used in the past. I can't remember off the top of my head.
theogre NOV 15, 07:02 PM
If you can't get < 5mm 3/16" follow cave directions then something is block the piston.

Very Likely Turning the piston will not help or if does may hide whatever causing this & happen again w/o warning.

"Best" is return w/o taking apart or do other damage that voids the warranty or return policy.

"rebuilding" a new unit w/ this type problem is likely going to have more problems as the Piston is likely bad etc & you don't have new parts to fix.


quote
Originally posted by Additivewalnut:
if you can't get the piston to seat all the way and are afraid of breaking them, you could return them and look into getting 80s Grand Am brakes. Makes the pedal feel a bit better and they're WAY cheaper but you lose the ebrake. Doesn't matter if you have an auto or don't mind leaving it in gear.

Dangerous to start & if or more like When you wreck Illegal "upgrades"/"fixes," the I-co can Void the policy & have worse problems if other people are involved.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-15-2023).]

jelly2m8 NOV 16, 04:07 AM
With the lever removed from the back side turn the treaded jackshaft so that it sinks into the back of the caliper some, then press the piston in, rinse and repeat until the piston bottoms. then reinstall the lever. Being a rebuild caliper it is most likely dry inside and that's a pretty hefty O-Ring on that jackshaft and will hold a lot of friction without some lubricant.

And No, your brake pads are not too thick.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 11-16-2023).]

steve308 NOV 16, 07:23 PM
White flag waived. Two local repair shops couldn't get the piston to retrack enough to allow for rotor clearance. I went midieval on it just out of spite. Still beat my best efforts to destroy it. Up on rollers until I find a caliper that works.
Patrick NOV 17, 01:30 AM

quote
Originally posted by steve308:

I went midieval on it just out of spite. Still beat my best efforts to destroy it.



I take it you're not planning to return the calipers under warranty?
PhatMax NOV 17, 06:22 AM
Well…. At that point, put an air hose on it and pop the piston out !
Frenchrafe NOV 18, 03:15 AM
Forcing the piston is not the answer!
Since you won't be returning the unit, now is the time to dissassemble carefully and start to understand how these things work😉
Use red rubber grease or industry/food grade silicone grease when reassembling.
You can do it!👌

------------------
"Turbo Slug" - '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. - The fastest Fiero in France! @turboslugfiero
https://youtu.be/hUzOAeyWLfM

steve308 NOV 18, 08:36 AM
It's boxed up along with the unopened passenger side unit and ready to ship out.
richard in nc NOV 18, 01:31 PM
imo a rebuilt caliper should already be all the way in and ready for new pads.
theogre NOV 18, 03:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by steve308:
It's boxed up along with the unopened passenger side unit and ready to ship out.

Should try the P-side unit to if it retracts @ minimum to see if problem happened one time or not before you took other to shops that failed.