Need blue ringy-dingy (Page 2/3)
John W. Tilford OCT 11, 01:50 PM
82 - T/A [At Work]
Sounds like MCAS Santa Ana, CA or MCAS El Toro, CA - neither of which exist now. MCAS = Marine Corps Air Station.
edfiero OCT 11, 02:57 PM
Hi Guys,
I also have a problem with the Blue Dingy Thingy.
I have the old style 10024379.
Mine works. NO RANDOM Chimes.
My problem is that the volume is very very low.
There is no corrosion on the terminals. Wiggling the box does not change volume.

Any ideas short of trying to find a box 10037040?
theogre OCT 11, 06:20 PM
Can be anything w/ bad solder to just bad part(s).

Example: if has electrolytic capacitors, they can dry out & don't work.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-11-2023).]

Vintage-Nut OCT 12, 10:28 AM
I don't have the schematic for the chime, however I bet the circuit does have a couple electrolytic caps which have a limited life span.

As Ogre said, you might try replacing these caps first.

TIP: Warm the plastic in the sun before carefully prying the box 'snaps' as the brittle material are liable to break easily.
theogre OCT 12, 12:26 PM
The old one has Just 1 E-cap & if making sound then likely not the cap.
This version is close to Patent numbers "stamped" on them w/ a lot more parts + 3 chips. (2 MC14001 Quad NOR + CD4011 Quad NAND) Others are Diodes, small Caps, Coils, 1 transistor & Disk thermistor to set Time On etc.

New version have change number of parts to make it cheaper & the Chip is now a custom Job. (Chip Logo is same as Logo on the "door.")
This one has 3 E-caps & more transistor.

These parts are Not made by GM but Lectron & Patents owned by them.
Other versions w/ Different Color Cases work the same but may have different pin outs so may not work in Fiero & others w/ Blue units.

Can search on Patent # or Lectron as name search. I had copies but can't find now & not digging @ USPTO or Other Patent Search.
4160132
4183278
4193060
4232287
& those just Patent # printed on them.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-12-2023).]

theogre OCT 12, 02:05 PM
Was bored so dig up 4193060 that has most of old unit schematic... then added some notes to it. I said Most because old unit only has 1 transistor etc so that isn't fully copied but image Should give many how it works.


SB latch is sort of input. Line uses Resistance Pull Up then latch pulls the line to low/ground when SB is out of it.

PTC Disk has 4 "Pins" (exact order doesn't matter to most & I'm not looking at any actual unit to see.)
1 +12v In (on 1 side of disk.)
2 ground
3 SB Warning Light
4 Chime Stop when SB is not used.

2, 3, 4 on other side of that disk. (see 4232287 patent)

1-2 just heats up in X time to "kill" the other "pins" so SB light doesn't need other parts to work. Plus auto reset fast when I-key is off.

Again, New unit does same w/ the custom chip but not same "wiring" as shown here. But does use same Disk for the SB warning.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-12-2023).]

82-T/A [At Work] OCT 12, 03:07 PM

quote
Originally posted by John W. Tilford:

82 - T/A [At Work]
Sounds like MCAS Santa Ana, CA or MCAS El Toro, CA - neither of which exist now. MCAS = Marine Corps Air Station.



Oh, I meant it was actually in Vietnam.

But I do think he was also stationed in California, but also at Naval Air Station Fort Lauderdale, which is now a community college, a private college, and a UF IFAS extension site.

He was also stationed in Guantanamo, and a few other places.
Mickey_Moose OCT 17, 01:51 PM
...never ever spray WD40 on anything electrical...in fact never spray WD40 on anything.

The electrical contact on the unit should be self cleaning when you insert/remove it. Only use contact cleaner approved for electronics if you must - however the best method is to just use and eraser.
theogre OCT 18, 04:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:
...never ever spray WD40 on anything electrical...in fact never spray WD40 on anything.

The electrical contact on the unit should be self cleaning when you insert/remove it. Only use contact cleaner approved for electronics if you must - however the best method is to just use and eraser.

WD40 & others are often bad for this job because most attack plastic & other problems.

Erasers & related may clean but leave nothing to protect the joint. Can remove thin coat of "tin" "gold" etc too making more issues...
You often need electrical cleaner/protector/lube & plastic safe from CRC Etc. or coat w/ silicone or brake grease or "bulb" grease... Or crap in the car & water in air will find "bare metal" & quickly have problems again.

GM & others use Bulb grease for Decades is basically some form of Cosmoline that never fully dries or runs until way hot then other things have big problems too.
edfiero OCT 19, 08:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:

BTW: GM calls the Module an "Alarm" for the Chime / Warning Module

10037040 was the last rev. of the 'alarm' for Chevrolet and Pontiac cars. It fits 15 General Motors vehicles.

14062570 is an older rev. and was replaced with 10037040
10024379 is the oldest rev, and again, was replaced with 10037040

EDIT
I also saw 10037041 which has one less electrical connector, I think it is the same part without the parking brake warning, but I may be wrong on this......




I also see several # 14062570 for sale on flea bay and all have 7 connectors rather than 8. Was 14062570 really used in the Fiero? If so, I may try my luck with one of these since they are significantly less than the one 10037040 currently for sale.