2.5 Iron Duke / Tech-4 - Rebuild Kit or Long Block? (Page 2/4)
theogre APR 19, 01:58 PM
Ok, I never seen that. What a nightmare to have 2 300 series...
Only seen 220 Series on some GM "low grade" V8 and a few wanted EFI w/o a lot of work.
82-T/A [At Work] APR 19, 02:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Ok, I never seen that. What a nightmare to have 2 300 series...
Only seen 220 Series on some GM "low grade" V8 and a few wanted EFI w/o a lot of work.




It doesn't get a lot of love, most people don't even know about it because it was only really used for... I think like ~4 years? It was first used in the 1981 Corvette, and was last used in the 1984 Corvette (with the newer body style). For the F-body, I think it was only used from 1982-1983... not sure it even made it in the 84 model year.

It really is a pretty cool system, but it was still super-smogged out, so in order to get any real power from it, you needed to hog out the intake ports. GM was forced to intentionally block the ports by almost 30%. They designed them though in a way that any weekend warrior could open them up for full potential. Like... literally, they built up a metal "ramp" at the opening of the port to close it off. So if you just ground 1/4" to 1/2" into the area that was stained by EGR in the intake, it would open it up to the full amount and instant ~20hp.

They offered a 350 version in the Corvette, and a 305 version in the F-body as the LU5.

I think it put out 165hp, and 245lbs of torque in the 305 variety.

With a good cam, no smog stuff, Holley units, you could easily get 250hp with a 305 from it. It really, really woke up on the highway, that's where it was more successful... poor off-the-line power though.

EDIT: Only reason I knew about it is because I had an 82 TransAm... haha...

EDIT 2: Yeah, check this out... I find a picture of one that was hogged out (and cleaned) aftermarket one and an original one with the "ramp" in the intake ports to the cyl head. They block about 2/3rds of it... GM had to do this with the casting last minute in order to make it pass emissions. You remove this, and it immediately gains like 20hp and better fuel economy. Totally ridiculous, but it was the time...

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 04-19-2023).]

82-T/A [At Work] APR 20, 03:30 PM
Can anyone tell me, is the cyl head from the 1987 different from the 1984-1986 models? Specifically... are the exhaust manifolds different? Or... even more specifically, can I easily use an exhaust manifold from a 1987 in a 1985 Fiero?


Thanks!
theogre APR 20, 06:32 PM
87 & up is another motor and Most parts won't work w/ 86 & down.

E-manifold is 1 of very few does work "across the wall" in cave page but OE 87 ones don't have heat stove for Thermac because 700 TBI doesn't need hot air.
sleek fiero APR 20, 07:10 PM
Mr Ogre sorry I sound so negative to you .I must sound like an ass but I just post to help owners with less experience. I know you have been around since 99 doing the same thing and I have found out you have been having some health issues. I hope you are doing better .I have tried numerous times to sign into the Ogre's cave but the page seems unavailable Anyway sorry 82-T/A I didn't mean to cut into your thread.
theogre APR 20, 11:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by sleek fiero:
I have tried numerous times to sign into the Ogre's cave but the page seems unavailable

See https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146682.html Cave Notice, Ref Chrome and other browsers...
82-T/A [At Work] APR 21, 10:43 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

87 & up is another motor and Most parts won't work w/ 86 & down.

E-manifold is 1 of very few does work "across the wall" in cave page but OE 87 ones don't have heat stove for Thermac because 700 TBI doesn't need hot air.




Thanks Ogre, that's exactly what I was looking for. The new aftermarket exhuast manifolds that they're selling for the 1987 model, actually have a newer heat shielding on it, which I think will work better. Because it shares the same motor with like the Grand Am and Oldsmobile (whatever it was at the time), I figure they're just making them all look sort of the same. I want to re-use the Thermac (is that a word or an acronym?) on the newer style manifolds, and get rid of the older style one that goes over the cross-over pipe above the catalytic converter.



This car also has the older-style catalytic converter too... which is enormous, so I'm going to replace it with the newer honeycomb style to get rid of the old charcoal style. The piping is decent, but the cat is looking a little ragged, and I'm sure I can pick up a little horsepower and driveability by going with the newer-style cat.



quote
Originally posted by sleek fiero:

Mr Ogre sorry I sound so negative to you .I must sound like an ass but I just post to help owners with less experience. I know you have been around since 99 doing the same thing and I have found out you have been having some health issues. I hope you are doing better .I have tried numerous times to sign into the Ogre's cave but the page seems unavailable Anyway sorry 82-T/A I didn't mean to cut into your thread.



No problem, I appreciate all the help you've given me, as well as Ogre.

Ogre, do you need help with the website? I'm happy to host it for you for free. How large is it?

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 04-21-2023).]

theogre APR 21, 03:31 PM
Thermac is used to prevent Carburetor Icing. Not sure name came from, maybe just a name for TM to register w/ USPTO many decades ago. Name is now "Generic" for all hot air setups.
300 series TBI can see Icing problem too. "Fiero" V6 just route heater loop of cooling system thru TB for same thing.

"Carb" Icing does not need freezing air. Just a "Right" mix of air temp & moisture in that and air flowing thru the Carb/TB/TBI can have ice buildup and engine does weird things to can't run until ice melts.

Some remove or parts fail for whatever anti-icing used and just got lucky never had problems.
Is not a good idea to have engine w/o this because can drive for months, ever years, because most icing happens at Random and without Warning.
Say you live in hot dry place so "dead" Thermac likely won't mater there but drive to somewhere else and car now stalls or other problems because now TBI is iced.
Good luck actually see the problem because can melt and dry out before can stop somewhere and open the hood.

Side Note: Icing may not be in the Carb etc. Ice Maybe before or after them. Just where air flow change going around/thru different parts can mater. Example: Icing maybe happen in "Fiero" V6 weird shape upper intake with the "neck down" section that some modify in other threads. Close to TB and heat pipe to prevent problems even there.

I've seen Carb Icing only on a few vehicles. 1 was first gen Chrysler mini van. Tube between Air Cleaner and Stove fell off and then random stall in slow heavy traffic. Since tube was gone, temp disconnect factory cold air pipe from air cleaner so get some engine bay warm air and stopped stalling. Then got replacement tube. These Tubes need to be rated for high heat. Otherwise When Thermac shuts off, the tube can burn melt or worse.
theogre APR 21, 08:05 PM

quote
This car also has the older-style catalytic converter too... which is enormous, so I'm going to replace it with the newer honeycomb style to get rid of the old charcoal style. The piping is decent, but the cat is looking a little ragged, and I'm sure I can pick up a little horsepower and driveability by going with the newer-style cat.

OE cat is Not charcoal. Just different version of new cat for most outside of CA and likely still working.
You will not get more power or "driveability" w/ new cat.
82-T/A [At Work] APR 24, 08:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Thermac is used to prevent Carburetor Icing. Not sure name came from, maybe just a name for TM to register w/ USPTO many decades ago. Name is now "Generic" for all hot air setups.
300 series TBI can see Icing problem too. "Fiero" V6 just route heater loop of cooling system thru TB for same thing.

"Carb" Icing does not need freezing air. Just a "Right" mix of air temp & moisture in that and air flowing thru the Carb/TB/TBI can have ice buildup and engine does weird things to can't run until ice melts.

Some remove or parts fail for whatever anti-icing used and just got lucky never had problems.
Is not a good idea to have engine w/o this because can drive for months, ever years, because most icing happens at Random and without Warning.
Say you live in hot dry place so "dead" Thermac likely won't mater there but drive to somewhere else and car now stalls or other problems because now TBI is iced.
Good luck actually see the problem because can melt and dry out before can stop somewhere and open the hood.

Side Note: Icing may not be in the Carb etc. Ice Maybe before or after them. Just where air flow change going around/thru different parts can mater. Example: Icing maybe happen in "Fiero" V6 weird shape upper intake with the "neck down" section that some modify in other threads. Close to TB and heat pipe to prevent problems even there.

I've seen Carb Icing only on a few vehicles. 1 was first gen Chrysler mini van. Tube between Air Cleaner and Stove fell off and then random stall in slow heavy traffic. Since tube was gone, temp disconnect factory cold air pipe from air cleaner so get some engine bay warm air and stopped stalling. Then got replacement tube. These Tubes need to be rated for high heat. Otherwise When Thermac shuts off, the tube can burn melt or worse.




Wanted to make sure you knew that my intent was to fix the THERMAC and make use of the newer (better) thermac shielding on the replacement exhaust manifold, rather than try to make use of the older (deteriorated) thermac tins that are on the piping just before the catalytic converter. I don't really think it'll ever be a problem in Florida, but for me... the goal is for the car to warm up faster, so I intend to find new flexible tubing and hook it back up to the air cleaner and the new thermac shielding on the replacement manifold. Right now the vent piping is missing.


Thanks!