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| ‘Best’ Antifreeze/Coolant Type in 2023? Green IAT? Change to OAT? Experience/Advice? (Page 2/3) |
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Spoon
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APR 18, 10:02 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by sleek fiero:
I checked with both of our GM dealers in town and both said no problem. They don't use anything but dexcool even on their older trade ins. |
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Dealers are the last to confess of anything negative on their products. The answer is always "yes", no problem.
Case in point,, I converted my Fiero to power steering and use the Toyota MR2 Spyder pump. I also used the factory PS fluid. Years later I decided to pick up some more for shelf stock. The local Toyota dealer never heard of it and said they used regular PS fluid in the MR2's they service. I'd taken a pic of the original container and showed it to them. The 2 of them had a bewildered look on their faces and it wasn't due to the Chinese writing on the can, however the part # on the can removed all doubt.
ps: Beware of Dealers bearing BS.
Spoon
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"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut [This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 04-18-2023).]
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ArthurPeale
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APR 19, 10:19 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by sleek fiero:
When flushing out the cooling system remove the two 1/4 " drain plugs out of the block so the sludge gets flushed out of the low areas around the cylinders. |
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got photos of these plugs? When I first got my SE the garbage that came out of the cooling system was amazing.
A year later I flushed it and was amazed how much was still in there, though it was better than before.
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Arthur Peale
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sleek fiero
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APR 19, 11:36 AM
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Hope you can see plug at end of arrow. One on each side of block. sleek [This message has been edited by sleek fiero (edited 04-19-2023).]
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ArthurPeale
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APR 19, 12:50 PM
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I see them! But, the photo is fuzzy - what kind of plug is that?
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sleek fiero
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APR 19, 01:01 PM
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it is a 1/4" pipe plug. I believe 9/16" wrench or socket. Use Teflon tape or sealant when reinstalling.
I used a generic picture of a 2.8 from s-10.[This message has been edited by sleek fiero (edited 04-19-2023).]
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Vintage-Nut
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APR 19, 01:11 PM
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The coolant drain plugs on the V6 engine block aren’t 'easy' to remove; one is under the starter. For me, I don’t remove the starter for a 'normal' preventive antifreeze/coolant flush.
Others have commented that removing the engine plugs are ineffective besides as considerable amounts of coolant can remain in the engine block. If you use ‘hard’ water in the system, yes, of course you will have more ‘junk’ to flush out….
When I drain the coolant system, I don’t get any ‘garbage’ in the container, only the coolant. Perhaps this is because I completely flush the engine ten times with distilled water before pouring-in full strength concentrate antifreeze. Yes, this takes some time to fill/run/cool/drain repeatedly until the drained liquid is nearly colorless.
This is the main reason I started this thread as IAT antifreeze needs more frequent changes......
VN
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ArthurPeale
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APR 19, 01:25 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:
For me, I don’t remove the starter for a 'normal' preventive antifreeze/coolant flush.
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For a standard change, I wouldn't either. Last two changes I popped out the fittings on the coolant tubes running along side of the car, and then put a hose in the fill tube and let it cycle for a while.
With the amount of garbage that came out the second time, it would not surprise me if there was a ton of additional garbage that a regular flush didn't touch.
Though, if I have to remove the starter to get to that plug, maybe I'll roll the dice and just not. And, the other is on the firewall side, I'm assuming?
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theogre
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APR 19, 01:49 PM
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Yes, Can remove engine plug(s), If can find or have access to it/them.
V6 maybe easier in Pic above but in the car may depend on trans and other things. Example: Auto trans and exhaust make hard to just see anything on rear side of V6. Front side have similar problems.
I think L4 has only one... Above the starter there is 1 plug but this is 1/4" square hole type on mine. Can reach from the top. Tries to hide under the "recall shield" sandwich between block and exhaust that covers most of front of head and block. Problem is do not let coolant or water to run on/in the starter and solenoid. Water is bad enough but Coolant is very conductive and could "short out" the big battery cable.
Doesn't have a drain on rear side.
Even if you find and remove the engine drain(s).
The Block, Rad and other things still have enough water to never use 50/50 mix to fill after flushing.
Many would loosen/remove a low hose to drain the rad before messing w/ easy to break drain plug on that. Even if used, Fiero "tipped" the rad so can't total drain it.
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sleek fiero
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APR 19, 02:39 PM
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I was just explaining how to do the job properly. It is up to each car owner to decide whether they just want to do a half assed job or not.
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Vintage-Nut
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APR 19, 05:11 PM
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| quote | | The coolant drain plugs on the V6 engine block aren’t 'easy' to remove; one is under the starter. For me, I don’t remove the starter for a 'normal' preventive antifreeze/coolant flush. |
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| quote | by sleek fiero
I was just explaining how to do the job properly. It is up to each car owner to decide whether they just want to do a half assed job or not. |
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So, in your view, "properly" means removing the starter for a 'normal' preventive antifreeze/coolant flush... .
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