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| Brake light issue (Page 2/5) |
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stevep914
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MAR 13, 09:09 PM
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Patrick, I will have a look tomorrow. The whole rear end of my frame has been modified for the Ferrari body. I am not sure I even have that there. My harness is on the driver’s side of the car, and I do not see any ground wires coming out of it anywhere, but will check. It was grounding problems that started this whole electrical mess.
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theogre
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MAR 13, 10:11 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by stevep914:
The connector has pins labeled ABCDEFGHJK. Pins BHJK are plugged with no wires. A is orange, C is light blue, D is dark blue, E is dark brown or black, F is white, and G is light green. |
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These wires and plug are for something else.
For Non GT models:
White wire from pedal switch goes to turn switch Thru Pin P @ C210 a big flat connector on steering column. Often hidden by column trim.
GT model uses Blue wire from pedal switch direct to C500 for Brake lights.
Wires for Taillights:
Yellow, L turn and brake
Dk Grn, R turn and brake
Brn, park lights
Blk, ground
Most of Those wires also go thru C210 then C500 in the engine bay next to the OE battery or location if moved the battery.
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stevep914
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MAR 13, 11:53 PM
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Unfortunately that is the harness I have, whether it was designed for something else or not. I guess I am just going to have to trial and error it to find what wires do what. I am still going on the assumption that one of those wires is a ground, and one is the trip wire to turn the brake lights on. The harness after the connector s imbedded in the fiebreglass of the clamshell, so it is not possible to trace each one back from the lights to the connector. The harness from the connector to the firewall appears to go through where it is supposed to. The joys of owning a car that was customized by someone else!
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fierosound
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MAR 14, 10:28 AM
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stevep914
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MAR 14, 01:49 PM
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Thankyou much for the wiring diagrams! I hope they will help me. Because this is a replica Ferrari that has been extensively modified, I only know it is an 86 chassis with a 2.8 engine and Isuzu 5 speed. I do not know if the car was an SE or GT, which appear to have different tail light wiring. As Ogre had suggested, the wiring harness that was used, is not the stock Fiero setup, and the wire colors are all different. In theory, I should be able to trace the wiring from the stop lights back through the harness, but whoever built the car fiberglassed in the harness, all along the side of the rear clamshell, so the wire colors at the light are different than what shows up at the connector that hooks up with the wire loom that goes through the firewall. Lesson learned if I were ever to build one of these from scratch! I am hoping to start by determining a ground wire in the loom, and then direct testing off the battery to determine which other wire activates the stop lights. Should be just a direct circuit through the bulb, right? Assuming so, then I have to find the corresponding wire on the connector for the firewall loom, that is triggered from the brake pedal switch to tell the lights to turn on.
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olejoedad
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MAR 14, 02:40 PM
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Do you have a voltmeter or test light?
You could determine what terminal on the connector is associated with each wire in the harness very easily by using the "continuity" function.
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IMSA GT
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MAR 14, 03:44 PM
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I'd hate to think that this was a GT and someone half-assed the "Pontiac" logo wiring into the tail light circuit. Then when the key is on, the "Pontiac" illuminates but in reality your taillights illuminate.
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stevep914
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MAR 14, 04:36 PM
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Had not thought to do that with a voltmeter, I have been trying to use a test light going direct from positive terminal on the battery ( with the harness disconnected) to try to find my ground wire. There are many possible connections on the pins for positive and negative, so this isn’t easy. Sounds like I would have to strip back coverings on the wires at the lights and then try the continuity thing. I will try to do that. At that point I know what wires do what on the lights end of the harness, before it is connected to the other wire loom coming through the firewall.THEN. I have to figure out why the corresponding signal wire from the switch is keeping the lights on all the time. Funny, but with the connector at the pedal switch disconnected, my lights are still on when the power from the battery is turned on.
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olejoedad
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MAR 15, 09:45 AM
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No need to strip wires, you can remove the bulbs. The barrel of the socket is the ground and the tabs on the bottom are the positive.
Make a chart on paper as to what each wire is purposed for.
The chart will also help you document in case problems crop up again.
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theogre
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MAR 15, 10:58 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by olejoedad:
No need to strip wires, you can remove the bulbs. The barrel of the socket is the ground and the tabs on the bottom are the positive. |
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Yes, don't strip wires just to check...
Do remove bulbs.
If can't remove bulbs for other wires, Careful use of strong sowing needles to pierce the insulation or back probe plugs is much easier.
If pierce a wire, coat the hole w/ silicon or brake grease to keep out water.
Can buy Wire Piercing Probes but I never bother for very rarely use item.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/wire...=wire+piercing+probe
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