Electrical issues, High idle, stalls when brake is applied. (Page 2/4)
Zach85GT JAN 09, 10:39 PM
So I went to check battery with a multi meter again with headlights disconnected, key in off position and noting on, I got a low reading of 11.05v again. I wanted to see if what IMSA said about attaching the negative booster cable to a engine bolt and seeing if that helps anything, the main battery terminals went up to around 13.5v but It would not start like that for some reason. I just picked up ANOTHER battery from Walmart (Under warranty of course) and new negative battery cables for tomorrows adventures.

And while I'm trouble shooting the electrical I was going to add more grounds as recommended by like everyone and maybe this will help some of my issues... the first one I was going to add was from the EGR bracket to battery tray.
Any recommendations for other common grounds to add ?
theogre JAN 09, 11:03 PM
⚠️ Warning: Do Not add more grounds!
That often make More Problems no matter what many claims here and elsewhere.

Fix/clean all "grounds" bolted/screwed to engine and frame.
See my Cave, Wire Service

⚠️ Warning: Do Not connect the battery and leave it a few hours let alone overnight.
Maybe HL motor but may not be and wreck another battery.
Go on amazon a get https://www.amazon.com/Uni-...itance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ or something small w/ DC Amp Clamp.
Many clamp meters are AC Amps only and won't work here.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Patrick JAN 09, 11:27 PM

quote
Originally posted by Zach85GT:

So I went to check battery with a multi meter again with headlights disconnected...



Are you disconnecting the headlights or their motors?
Joseph Upson JAN 10, 03:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Are you disconnecting the headlights or their motors?



This is a very important test to perform. In my case, I only needed to touch each headlight motor to identify the one that was continuously cycling on and off after the car was parked, it was pretty warm to the touch.
Jake_Dragon JAN 10, 05:15 PM
Start pulling fuses and see if the readings go up a lot for one of them.
Take a picture before you do
Zach85GT JAN 10, 10:29 PM
This is the wire I disconnected, this is the correct wire to the HL motor right....?


So I replaced the big negative battery wire and cleaned up the bolt to engine ground again... Put brand new battery in, tested it and got a good 12.6v. Connected both battery cables, tested it again and got another good 12.59v reading.
Left it connected for about 15-20 min then tested it again to see if something was draining it, still got a good 12.59v. Started the car and it fired right up without any boost, ran perfect without any symptoms, so I went to test voltage at the battery again with the engine running, it was at 12.05v . So this points to an obvious issue with the alt, correct ? Not getting any charge from the alt to battery?? or can something else be causing this? I just have a hard time believing that just a bad alt can cause such weird symptoms. Could a short or fusible link also cause this ?

I'm assuming if I left it running for long enough it would just kill this battery and I would be back to boosting it.
my next step is to pull the alt and get it tested somewhere on a bench.

Patrick JAN 10, 10:37 PM

quote
Originally posted by Zach85GT:

This is the wire I disconnected, this is the correct wire to the HL motor right....?



Yes, that's the single wire to the headlight motor. I assume you disconnected both motors.


quote
Originally posted by Zach85GT:

Started the car and it fired right up without any boost, ran perfect without any symptoms, so I went to test voltage at the battery again with the engine running, it was at 12.05v



It's only 2.55v short. I wouldn't worry about it.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-10-2023).]

theogre JAN 11, 12:00 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
It's only 2.55v short. I wouldn't worry about it.

Nope.
The battery is 1/2 Dead and needs Charging w/ 6 to 10 amp charger before he installs a replacement alt.
should need only a couple hours or less to charge w/ smaller chargers.

Last battery likely only need charging but many Wmarts don't have auto service even tho same stores sells battery and ever tires.

Don't let replacement alt to charge low/dead battery first time or if replacement is iffy/bad out of box then battery gets more abuse.

While HL Motor and Alt dead is two dif problems but a motor killing the battery can cause alt problems.
Because SI alt's does not self protect from a dead battery, < 10-11 v, pulling max amps rated and more and kill the SI. (CS has protections but jumping/boosting can "void" the protection and kill a CS.)
Patrick JAN 11, 12:48 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Nope.
The battery is 1/2 Dead and needs Charging w/ 6 to 10 amp charger before he installs a replacement alt.



Ummm, Ogre... do you not understand the purpose of the after my comment? Of course there's a problem with only 12.05v when the engine is running!


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

It's only 2.55v short. I wouldn't worry about it.


[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-11-2023).]

theogre JAN 11, 01:26 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
do you not understand the purpose of the after my comment?

And you like others assume PFF Smilies are easy to "read" let alone what they mean.
Even with "Modern Screen" because high res screens often make text and everything else way small at same pixel/point text size.
w/ Text Zoomed by Browsers 150% or more and use glasses many can't see well just a yellow dot w/ some squiggles. Even if you see ; ) in the quote when posting, ; and : at normal text size looks same to many.

Even tittle icons can be hard to read...
Smile between sunglasses and mad always look like eyes with / \ eyebrows on many displays.

Not just Smilies by whatever name... Many "True" Emojis can be hard to tell just what they are when all are same color. (or worse some have "hidden" meaning etc that trigger the woke mob etc but lets ignore that issue.)

Because isn't just reader's eyes but hundreds of screens and GPUs to render the output and even now many screens hate small pictures make for higher resolution.
99+% of server side inserted "Smilies" are "GIF" or other Bit Maps that doesn't scale well.
True Emojis are rendered local by a Browser or OS but many things can's scale them too. Because Emojis are just Single Unicode Character Codes and whatever have to have a local "font" w/ them and many programs still use Bit Maps to display them. Even if use True Type or PS tiny pictures are problems to many devices before anyone reading them.

This Is why Emojis look different for each OS version and even from one program and version of that on whatever OS.
Icrap and Droid default Emojis are different looking. Chrome FF and Safari Browsers on PC are often app depended and look different most times too.
Is also why many OS/Programs auto scale Emojis 2x to a lot more of Text size every time there used.

Example: Go to https://emojipedia.org/warning/ and look at example outputs for OS and Programs for 1 Emoji. And the example likely skipped many devices, OS or Program Versions. Just in recent FF versions on PC seems display of emojis has change. Likely their Emoji Font has changed above adding new ones.

While Emojis are "just" Standardize "Wingdings/wingbats" type symbols, Many programs and OS don't list Emojis Files in the Font List of whatever program. May not show in installed Fonts either. But often is still a Font to many things and handles about same and even bold tags etc can change the display of them. In other cases is inline images in text and move with the text sim to PFF smilies but bold tagging etc often doesn't matter.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-11-2023).]