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| Wheel Lock lost! (Page 2/4) |
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David Hambleton
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JUL 20, 08:43 AM
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I got a replacement once from McGard but I don't see them now on www.mcgard.com. The pattern varied as well so the original code was required.
You might have quicker success welding nuts to them.
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FIREBOX
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JUL 20, 09:28 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by David Hambleton:
The pattern varied as well so the original code was required.
You might have quicker success welding nuts to them. |
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I posted a picture of my lock pattern so it could be compared to a potential donor device.
I'll look for a welder and take some old nuts unless someone offers me the tool.
Should I repost to "Fiero Parts forum"?
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reinhart
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JUL 20, 09:53 AM
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I could be totally wrong but I don't think those are the GM factory wheel locks. At least the later Fieros its a totally different design.
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theogre
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JUL 20, 10:45 AM
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Above Is Not GM or McGard locks.
I haven't seen these anywhere. M/W in the center maybe Logo etc for company made them. Even if can find who made, often weird brand are discontinued or gone completely.
Yup, no clearance for most "strip nut" tools.
Maybe no clearance to drive on 12 point socket that many use to remove GM locks when lost the key.
Look like center w/ M/W on in is harden to prevent drilling the thing w/ common drills. Metal there seems different type not just "rusty."
Not sure how I would remove them other than weld a nut on top and I don't have a welder...
"glues" often fail here for several reasons... big problem is can't clean etc good enough.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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David Hambleton
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JUL 20, 12:53 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Above Is Not GM or McGard locks.
I haven't seen these anywhere. M/W in the center maybe Logo etc for company made them. Even if can find who made, often weird brand are discontinued or gone completely.
Yup, no clearance for most "strip nut" tools.
Maybe no clearance to drive on 12 point socket that many use to remove GM locks when lost the key.
Look like center w/ M/W on in is harden to prevent drilling the thing w/ common drills. Metal there seems different type not just "rusty."
Not sure how I would remove them other than weld a nut on top and I don't have a welder...
"glues" often fail here for several reasons... big problem is can't clean etc good enough.
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Ogre! C'mon man! Lol! We went through this seven years ago: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/135531.html
In that thread, I posted the Sep 1983 order sheet; PB4 was for the locks (from McGard).
BTW, the M in the center is on the stud; signifying Metric...[This message has been edited by David Hambleton (edited 07-20-2022).]
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FIREBOX
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JUL 20, 01:08 PM
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I thought the "M" was the end of the stud, not part of the lock. It doesn't matter, I appreciate all the input I've been given. Here's my plan:
--find and take car to welder in Pittsburgh Butler area.
--in the meantime, don't get a flat tire (especially non-repairable!)
--"drive it till the wheels fall off" Not likely.------------------
WAYNES' WHEELS: White 84 SE with all touch of blue (body trim, wheel highlights and front pegasus decal)
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Patrick
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JUL 20, 04:27 PM
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David, you need to link to the first page. 
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David Hambleton
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JUL 20, 09:34 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
David, you need to link to the first page. |
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Right you are, Patrick. I fixed that for me. I hope when people see the original poster no blood pressure issues ensue... Lol!
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skywurz
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JUL 20, 10:20 PM
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Oh yeah those are not the OEM mushrooms my method works for that style. [This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 07-20-2022).]
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skywurz
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JUL 20, 10:22 PM
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. [This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 07-20-2022).]
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