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| Rear wheel wobble (Page 2/2) |
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olejoedad
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MAY 16, 06:55 AM
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First things first....
Is the wheel properly tightened? (Don't laugh, it's happened)
Is the axle splined into the hub? Post a photo looking at the axle/washer/nut for visual confirmation.
Is the axle nut fully tightened and torqued to spec? (180 ft lbs is a lot to do with hand tools)
Does the rear knuckle move when the wheel wobbles? (If it doesn't, your axle nut is loose)
Is the rear knuckle fully seated onto the ball joint stud? (Don't assume it is, the rubber boot should be compressed by the knuckle and the top of the stud should protrude through the top of the attachment clamp at the bottom of the knuckle)[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 05-16-2022).]
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fierofool
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MAY 16, 08:47 AM
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Have you checked the tie rod bushings at the cradle end? Also, I see that this is an early model and a rear sway bar has been installed. Though the sway bar will help improve handling, it will require frequent replacement of the rear ball joints because the stress is put on them in reverse of what it was designed to handle. To properly check the lower ball joint, the vehicle must be supported by the lower control arm. Use a leverage bar of some kind inserted underneath the tire so that you can lift up on the tire. Have a helper observe the lower ball joint. I had similar issues with my 86 at one time and it wasn't discovered that the ball joint was the problem until I used the method I described. With the car supported by the cradle or chassis, tension is placed on the ball joint by the drooping suspension, and you won't see any movement in it. I also found that the 3 bolts at the top of the strut that hold it into the top of the strut tower weren't fully tightened.
You said you are unfamiliar with replacing hubs. There is a required procedure for replacement to prevent immediate failure. While the vehicle is supported, torque the axle nut to 75 lb-ft. Then install the wheel with the center cap removed. Lower the vehicle but do not let it roll and torque the axle nut to 200 lb-ft. Every time the axle nut is removed, a new one should be used. Also, be sure to use the washer behind the axel nut. The three bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle torque at 65 lb-ft.
http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/...nnni1ps&topic=3213.0[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 05-16-2022).]
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A_Lonely_Potato
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MAY 16, 03:09 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by olejoedad:
Is the wheel properly tightened? (Don't laugh, it's happened)
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As tight as i could get it in the air, and there doesn't seem to be any play between the wheel and rotor.
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Is the axle splined into the hub? Post a photo looking at the axle/washer/nut for visual confirmation.
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Well i do feel silly. My new hubs did not come with washers(they did come with nuts) and the old hub on the passenger side didn't have a washer either, so I foolishly assumed it must just not need one. Just checked and my drivers side does have a washer. Guess i'll source one for my passenger side...
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Is the axle nut fully tightened and torqued to spec? (180 ft lbs is a lot to do with hand tools)
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To the best of my knowledge, yes. I used a torque wrench(with unverified accuracy) to 200ft/lbs and essentially deadlifted till it clicked.
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Does the rear knuckle move when the wheel wobbles? (If it doesn't, your axle nut is loose)
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Yes, linked is video showing the knuckle, some of the strut and tie rod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDn1d9GxXoU
(EDIT: for those who don't know, you can right-click on a youtube video and select "loop" to toggle looping, so you don't need to click replay to watch the same short video multiple times)
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Is the rear knuckle fully seated onto the ball joint stud? (Don't assume it is, the rubber boot should be compressed by the knuckle and the top of the stud should protrude through the top of the attachment clamp at the bottom of the knuckle)
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Again, to the best of my knowledge yes. I pushed the stud into the clamp until the groove lined up with the bolt hole, and allowed the bolt to slip right through.
Here you can see the top of the stud slightly protruding over the clamp.
And here shows the rest of the ball joints position
| quote | Originally posted by fierofool:
Have you checked the tie rod bushings at the cradle end?
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I have not inspected that part thoroughly, added to my list.
Reading through that guide, that sounds like what I did(it was a couple weeks ago so i'm a but fuzzy on exact procedure), I'll be sure to use yours when I do the drivers side, thanks 
Pretty sure this old ball joint was bad too 
 [This message has been edited by A_Lonely_Potato (edited 05-16-2022).]
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olejoedad
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MAY 16, 03:19 PM
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I'm thinking toe link inner bushings, or perhaps not aligned and tightened.
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fierofool
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MAY 16, 06:59 PM
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You're grasping the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. Does it move like that if you grasp it at 6 and 12 o'clock?
As for the missing washer, you'll probably need to do as one of our guys down here did. Go to Tractor Supply and get one that almost goes on, then Dremel out the center to make it fit.
When you replace the other side hub, don't set it down on the ground until you've torqued it to 75 lb-ft.
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Dennis LaGrua
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MAY 16, 07:01 PM
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Jack car up so the wheels are off the ground. Support with jack stands. Now grab the wheels with your two hands and try to rock it side to side, up down and in and out. If you hear any rattling or feel any looseness that's where the problem may be. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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A_Lonely_Potato
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MAY 22, 04:52 PM
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Still a few things to do, got held up by life and the rain(no garage bay to work in.) Looking at mounts i found my dogbone mount is just completely missing a bolt  !
Replaced the inner and outer tierod with a set of RD parts, and found the old one was an older revision RD part too! Got driver side ball joint replaced quick and easy today. Passenger side was a major pain, as it was mounted on the top of the control arm instead of from the bottom.
Going to find a washer for the driver side hub, some camber adjustment bolts so i can lose some of the negative camber, then take her in for an alignment.
I'll update again when i've made more progress, thanks for the help so far everyone!
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Patrick
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MAY 22, 06:49 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by A_Lonely_Potato:
i found my dogbone mount is just completely missing a bolt!
Passenger side was a major pain, as it was mounted on the top of the control arm instead of from the bottom.
Going to find a washer for the driver side hub...
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This poor Fiero. Previous owners/mechanics must've been idiots.
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A_Lonely_Potato
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MAY 23, 04:41 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
This poor Fiero. Previous owners/mechanics must've been idiots. |
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The owner before me didnt seem too mechanically inclined, but the one before that put in some major work. swapped from 4spd to 5spd isuzu, put in a newer engine, 2nd gen headlights, poly bushings for the cradle and rear control arms, grand am brakes w/ s10 booster, battery relocation, some other things i cant remember. they seemed to take care of it, huge stack of records for parts ordered and installed as well. Was cared for once upon a time, then not so much. Im tryna give it the love its been missing out on.
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