Muncie 4-speed clutch arm (Page 2/3)
olejoedad APR 01, 11:02 PM
Look for an arm from an 86 four speed, they are cast iron.
8t6gt APR 02, 12:33 AM
Mine is an '86 4-speed, it has a stamped steer arm. Regardless, I can't seem to find either.

[This message has been edited by 8t6gt (edited 04-02-2022).]

olejoedad APR 02, 01:46 AM
Hmmm, my 86 SE had a cast arm.

Have you tried the Fiero Factory in Toney AL?

I think it's called TFF Automotive now.
reinhart APR 09, 07:57 PM
I believe it's still calle Fiero Factory if you're buying parts. But the repair shop has a different name and is separately owned.
glwalker04 MAY 05, 11:36 AM
My 84' SE performance with a 4 speed muncie has a cast iron arm. The thing looks relatively new and the clutch lets in very early on the pedal, and tends to slip. I am trying to diagnose my clutch issues and I saw all of this saying that the 4 speeds have a stamped steel arm. I believe a previous owner of my car replaced the stamped arm after it likely broke in a similar fashion. Some people are saying the cast and stamped are interchangeable. I doubt this since the fiero store sells the replacement cast iron arm for 85-88 only, not '84. The 84 only comes with a 4 speed muncie, so it makes sense that all 84's should have the stamped. Anybody know how I can adjust my clutch arm or adjust the clutch so it lets in later in the pedal? might fix my issues.
Patrick MAY 05, 02:55 PM

quote
Originally posted by glwalker04:

...the clutch lets in very early on the pedal, and tends to slip.

Anybody know how I can adjust my clutch arm or adjust the clutch so it lets in later in the pedal? might fix my issues.



"Lets in"? What does that mean... engages?

Early engagement could be air in the hydraulics, or a bent pedal. How high does your clutch pedal sit above your brake pedal?

Clutch slippage is an entirely different matter. On a non-molested system, it's due to the clutch disc being worn out. On a "molested" system, it might be due to a hack job where someone tried using a much longer push rod between the slave and the clutch arm (which isn't allowing the clutch arm to return far enough).

Is there a reason why you abandoned your thread?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-05-2022).]

fierosound MAY 05, 07:18 PM
Just a pic for info from an archived thread.
The Isuzu 5-speed stamped clutch arm looks very similar to what you have.
Another source says the The Muncie 4-speed and Isuzu 5-speed use the same stamped arm.

I got an arm from an Isuzu the other day - PN 10034202 stamped on it.


quote
Originally posted by CowsPatoot:

An original un-modded stamped Isuzu arm next to a cast Isuzu and cast Muncie






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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-05-2022).]

glwalker04 MAY 07, 01:34 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

"Lets in"? What does that mean... engages?

Early engagement could be air in the hydraulics, or a bent pedal. How high does your clutch pedal sit above your brake pedal?

Clutch slippage is an entirely different matter. On a non-molested system, it's due to the clutch disc being worn out. On a "molested" system, it might be due to a hack job where someone tried using a much longer push rod between the slave and the clutch arm (which isn't allowing the clutch arm to return far enough).

Is there a reason why you abandoned your thread?




Hi Patrick, thanks for the replies, I am new to working on cars and don't know exactly what words I should use to describe things quite yet. This is my first manual car and first car I have bought, I am a senior in high school and play sports, so if i'm not doing either of those I'm working on the car and rarely getting on the forum. I'm not used to navigating the forum and didn't know how to get back to my old thread. I understand mechanical things quite quickly, so I understand that the clutch plate could have been worn, unfortunately I have not actually driven the car yet. My dad is the only one who knows how to drive manual, and we only took it on one test drive before having to work on it. He described the clutch as "slipping" until about 2500 rpm, so I thought I might have to take out the clutch and put in a new plate. However, I noticed the pedal engages the clutch quite early, about 3-4 inches down, and to answer your question, the clutch pedal sits about 1 inch below the brake. Could the clutch letting in high cause a "slipping" effect? Or is it impossible for the clutch to even engage if its letting in early. I have been doing a lot of research and can't find any diagrams or info on the m19 other than gearing ratios. This thread is the one where I noticed my clutch arm was cast, not stamped, and it made me think that might be the reason my pedal engages too early. Unfortunately since I haven't actually driven a manual or this car, I don't know what the "normal" should be.

[This message has been edited by glwalker04 (edited 05-07-2022).]

longjonsilver MAY 07, 02:52 PM
Clutch pedal shud sit ABOVE the brake pedal at rest. If not, then either an adjustable banjo is needed or air in the lines shud be bled. i believe that all 4 speed Muncies use the cast iron arm OR the stamped steel one. They are interchangable. i know cuz i did it. You gotta learn to bleed your clutch system.

Herez how i do it. Get the front of the car higher than the rear - a lot if possible. Clean out the clutch master cylinder with a q tip and then suck out the fluid with a turkey baster - get one at a thrift store and keep it for your car. Now add new fluid to master cylinder. Now open the bleeder at the slave. Let it drip and catch the drips on your cradle with a soup can. Let it bleed a long time and keep adding fluid to master. Finally shut off bleed screw and put cap on master. This is known as the gravity bleed system. There are other systems that work as well.

Rodney sells a double sealed clutch slave piston from a Toyota that works perfectly in a Fiero. i highly recommend it.

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glwalker04 MAY 07, 04:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by longjonsilver:

Get the front of the car higher than the rear - a lot if possible. Clean out the clutch master cylinder with a q tip and then suck out the fluid with a turkey baster - get one at a thrift store and keep it for your car. Now add new fluid to master cylinder. Now open the bleeder at the slave. Let it drip and catch the drips on your cradle with a soup can. Let it bleed a long time and keep adding fluid to master. Finally shut off bleed screw and put cap on master. This is known as the gravity bleed system. There are other systems that work as well.




Unfortunately can't do that yet, car has been on back jack stands as I have been working on the calipers and E-Brake.

Thanks for the reassurance that the arms are interchangeable. Still wonder if the clutch plate needs to be taken out or not (rather not deal with the trouble of taking out the tranny if possible, especially since I don't have any info/diagrams of an m19).

Here's a pic of my pedals:
from front to back- clutch, brake, gas


And for reference, here is my slave cylinder and mounting bracket.


My plan is to move the slave cylinder back using the extra hole

[This message has been edited by glwalker04 (edited 05-07-2022).]