Brake System Issues (Page 2/3)
WaterInYuhDish JAN 10, 04:36 PM

quote
Originally posted by ArthurPeale:

If memory serves, if the rear brake pistons aren't adjusted properly, this can cause the issue you're describing.

I've got two Fieros, and what you're describing is what's happening with my project car.

I'm not going to bother to install them properly until I can replace the cradle, since I'd have to replace the ebrake line through the cradle, that would just be added work



If this is true. That very well is my problem. I have yet to get the driver side ebrake cable pulled through to set that and adjust the calipers/pads. So I think that will be my next move.

Pull the cable through the spring to get that seated. Adjust the parking brake/caliper/pads as needed.
Patrick JAN 10, 05:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by WaterInYuhDish:

And I have bled in the proper order for the manual trans.



Say what?

WaterInYuhDish JAN 11, 02:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by ArthurPeale:

If memory serves, if the rear brake pistons aren't adjusted properly, this can cause the issue you're describing.

I've got two Fieros, and what you're describing is what's happening with my project car.

I'm not going to bother to install them properly until I can replace the cradle, since I'd have to replace the ebrake line through the cradle, that would just be added work



Took another crack at it and I cannot pull the cable through to the tab where it's suppose to seat on the caliper bracket. Somehow it seems to have lost length after removing it and no amount of strength will get it to stretch far enough. Is there a way to add some give for the cable and tighten it up after? I looked through my manual but I didn't find much that seemed to help with my specific issue. Adjusting the parking brake portion even was a little vague. Will take a look through the cave soon enough.
WaterInYuhDish JAN 11, 02:20 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Say what?



If you read the whole quoted section the context should help you. I found that the LR brake line is the longest for my fiero. So that's the first one i bleed.
Patrick JAN 11, 03:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by WaterInYuhDish:

If you read the whole quoted section the context should help you. I found that the LR brake line is the longest for my fiero. So that's the first one i bleed.



A "manual trans" has nothing to do with bleeding the brakes. In your quote of Mike, he's referring to the service manual, not the transmission!


quote
Originally posted by Mike in Sydney:

If you have a manual, forget the order it suggests. The correct order is LR, RR, RF, LF.


[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 01-11-2022).]

WaterInYuhDish JAN 11, 05:15 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:





I see. I misread. And I've seen so many people say one or the other I guess my brain filled in the gap with it being something to do with the transmission.
ArthurPeale JAN 13, 09:19 AM

quote
Originally posted by WaterInYuhDish:


Took another crack at it and I cannot pull the cable through to the tab where it's suppose to seat on the caliper bracket. Somehow it seems to have lost length after removing it and no amount of strength will get it to stretch far enough. Is there a way to add some give for the cable and tighten it up after? I looked through my manual but I didn't find much that seemed to help with my specific issue. Adjusting the parking brake portion even was a little vague. Will take a look through the cave soon enough.



which cable? you may have to adjust the tensioner that goes between the cables to allow more slack.

if your cables are rusted so that you can't work with them, they're not terribly expensive, I'd replace them.
theogre JAN 13, 02:23 PM
Ignore P-brake cables right now. (Unless keeps Brake light On, then pull main cable in back to shut off light when messing w/ handle.)

P-brake cables won't matter to fix pedal to floor problems.

No leaks and still floored pedal mean big air problems and/or calipers/piston(s) causing huge pad clearance problems.

Good rear pistons will self adjust Without the P-brake cables attach to them.
R-calipers only need external P-brake springs to keep lever at resting stop so won't move when normal brakes are used.
Good sliders and their "o-rings" and proper install will help too.

Hoses will Not cause floor pedal w/o leaking. Hoses will fail in very obvious ways and leak bad at minimum.

MC tank will "spray" fluid. More so w/ low or floor pedal problems because quick take-up section dumps a lot of extra fluid. See my Cave, Quick Take-up notes
WaterInYuhDish JAN 13, 03:40 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Ignore P-brake cables right now. (Unless keeps Brake light On, then pull main cable in back to shut off light when messing w/ handle.)

P-brake cables won't matter to fix pedal to floor problems.

No leaks and still floored pedal mean big air problems and/or calipers/piston(s) causing huge pad clearance problems.

Good rear pistons will self adjust Without the P-brake cables attach to them.
R-calipers only need external P-brake springs to keep lever at resting stop so won't move when normal brakes are used.
Good sliders and their "o-rings" and proper install will help too.

Hoses will Not cause floor pedal w/o leaking. Hoses will fail in very obvious ways and leak bad at minimum.

MC tank will "spray" fluid. More so w/ low or floor pedal problems because quick take-up section dumps a lot of extra fluid. See my Cave, Quick Take-up notes



There's no fluid leaks anywhere. There's no pad clearance issue as far as I can tell, either. I'll read through your link here in a moment. Was thinking of clamping the vacuum line to the booster shut to see if there's any difference. Just need to pick up some vice grips unless you have an alternative to test for a vacuum leak?
WaterInYuhDish JAN 13, 04:05 PM

quote
Originally posted by ArthurPeale:


which cable? you may have to adjust the tensioner that goes between the cables to allow more slack.

if your cables are rusted so that you can't work with them, they're not terribly expensive, I'd replace them.



If the tensioner is the little assembly located just behind the rear of the craddle, then yes. I was playing around with that to see if I could get any more give in the ds cable, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Might be that it's rusted on the ds.