1986 V6 SE Automatic - Neutral Safety Switch Bypass (Page 2/3)
Patrick SEP 20, 03:34 PM

quote
Originally posted by ArthurPeale:

I had someone suggest to me the ICM if the tach isn't moving.

Since it's not cranking at all, this doesn't apply, is that accurate?



That suggestion makes as much sense in this situation as asking if you're out of gas. Sounds like something you might've been told on FB.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-20-2021).]

theogre SEP 20, 05:39 PM
black back probe the NSS wires at connector without unplugging it.
Carefully use a big needle around/thru soft "rubber" on back side of the plug. (Make sure needle isn't plastic coated or otherwise so red probe don't hit metal.)
or
pierce the wires w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole left behind to keep out water.

in both case Ground black probe to measure volts on the wires.
ArthurPeale SEP 20, 05:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

That suggestion makes as much sense in this situation as asking if you're out of gas. Sounds like something you might've been told on FB.




*snort* yep.

Well, I got it started. Had to cheat.

First, I tried to see if maybe the ignition switch was out of alignment. Took apart the column in the lot (which I didn't want to do, but....) and...not as far as I can tell.

Finally, I jacked it up and shorted the starter solenoid with a pair of pliers. Being under the car when it's cranking? Not so fun.

Now, she's in the driveway. Still won't turn over, but at least it's on home turf.

Also, sporting a shiny new error code 42.
ArthurPeale SEP 21, 04:39 PM
It seems to have been the NSS connector.

I disconnected it. Green and fuzzy (which I knew when I disconnected it yesterday).

Scrubbed with a toothbrush and white vinegar. Scrubbed again with baking soda and water to neutralize the vinegar. Chased with the end of a paperclip.

Popped it back on and...started right up. Trunk popper is working, too. It looks like one of the wires for the trunk popper goes directly to the switch, but I might be wrong about that.

I'm not going to drive it anywhere other than a big circle for a bit, to make sure this is solved, but for the moment, I'm hoping that it is.
ArthurPeale SEP 21, 04:40 PM
I would have though that the dozen or so times I unplugged it and replugged it yesterday would have cleaned the pins enough to at least fire off (until I could get somewhere to clean it properly), but I guess not!
theogre SEP 21, 10:55 PM
Pull Plug again and coat the metal w/ silicone or brake grease.
Both are plastic friendly.

"Water" got in causing this and now metal isn't even "tinned."

I don't remember how that plug is made.
Think the wire and "pin" are back loaded but can't remember what tool to release the "pin."
Maybe same/similar to See my Cave, Defect & Connection notes

If Weather Pack type need a tubular tool to release them.

With "pins" out, you can see the wires and grease the crimp area too.

going to rain next 2 days so can't look at one.
ArthurPeale SEP 22, 05:54 PM
I can get a replacement harness from Rock Auto for about $40. Only thing I don't like is the colours for the wires are all grey.

Going to get some grease to seal this up.
Dennis LaGrua SEP 22, 06:20 PM
Years back I had a similar problem when I was 65 miles from home at the AACA /Das Awksfecht auto event. Kept car in park, t urned the key to on position, crawled under there and used a screwdriver to momentarily cross the solenoid and starter terminals. She started right up and I headed for home. Turned out the starter solenoid was bad so at my home garage, I just replaced with a new starter motor/solenoid ass'y.

------------------
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ArthurPeale SEP 24, 11:40 AM
Thought it was fixed-ish, guess not.

I went to start her last night...nada.

This time, unplugging and replugging the harness cleaned the pins enough to start her, but they were already green, again. Argh.

I suspect what I was seeing was corrosion bits that were already in the NSS, as opposed to new corrosion. I didn't remove the NSS to clean it, just the harness. I'll do that his weekend.
ArthurPeale SEP 04, 02:38 PM
posting a follow-up, three years later: yes, the switch is bad. It's been bad, at the connector, and at least partially internally.

For two years I could get it going by half unplugging the harness and plugging it back in repeatedly to clean tarnish off from the contacts.

then that stopped working. I had a piece of wire I slipped into the unplugged harness to short the connection, start the car, and then plug the harness back in.

Last week I had enough; I would have done this sooner, but I read that removing the switch was a bear.

They weren't wrong, but it wasn't too bad. Once I removed the appropriate bolts, it came off with a tiny amount of complaint.

The switch definitely requires replacement, butI bought myself some time. Cleaned the contacts (externally and internally), new dielectric grease, and since the metal cover was degraded on one side, I opened it up, cleaned it all out, regreased it, and put it back together.

Hasn't started this well since I bought it.

I WILL replace the switch soon, but this got me out of "I'm annoyed with this" status.


On a related note, does anyone have the pinout for the remaining wires? One of the terminals was bent over and I don't think it's ever been making contact since I've owned it. Would love to know what I just unlocked, lol.