Slave cylinder overextended?? 3800 w/F40 (Page 2/3)
kennn OCT 29, 11:40 AM
Or, having slept on it, it occurs to me that that the "free" space before the surface of the TOB is 0.225", not 0.675". in that manner as the disk wears the clutch fingers tend to grow and the 0.225" allows for that growth without releasing the clutch. Am I close?

Ken

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'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

kennn OCT 29, 09:22 PM
Or, having slept on it, it occurs to me that that the "free" space before the surface of the TOB is 0.225", not 0.675". in that manner as the disk wears the clutch fingers tend to grow and the 0.225" allows for that growth without releasing the clutch. Am I close?

Ken

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'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

dnthmn87 OCT 29, 09:30 PM
I think you're right Kenn but im not the expert.
OK new measurements with a .25 spacer and another new slave cylinder. Its 3.312" to the compressed slave/tob. And I double checked the pressure plate fingers to the bell housing mating surface with a new straight edge, still get 3". So the air gap is still a little too much?
Side note- My clutch pedal has a lot more travel than my CTSV and another car I compared it to. I had to make my own clutch pedal mount on a car never intended to have a stick shift (2006 Grand Prix) and I feel like the placement of the pedal gives it more travel than it should. Both cars I glanced at have a bump stop of sorts so the pedal doesn't just go to the floor. Last time it blew out the slave it just felt like the pedal can move too far, its not even close to an OEM setup, I guess I should try to find a G6 and compare master cylinders to what I have and see how much the pedal travels with pressure. Even if I get the air gap perfect, I still might add my own bump stop so I can control the amount of pedal travel.
kennn NOV 01, 09:04 PM
I think Fieroguru is the knowledge source here, not me. Perhaps we could get him to comment or clarify.

Ken

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'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

dnthmn87 NOV 04, 02:35 PM
Ok i've got a bad idea to throw out for debate. I''ve got a .31'' gap between the TOB and clutch fingers. Its supposed to be .22". I can't stack 2 spacers like the one i'm using, theyre not designed to work that way. So what if I found a .10" washer the same shape as the face of the TOB and bonded/welded the washer to the TOB to achieve a smaller gap? Seems risky right? I still plan to reduce the pedal travel and see if the clutch still gets pushed in far enough either way.
fieroguru NOV 05, 09:14 AM
If you are using the spacer that slips over the nose of the HTOB face, then you can install a small shim between the spacer and the HTOB nose.

With this application being a hodgepodge of parts in a non-fiero chassis with an unknown master and unknown dimensions of pedal pivots and rod attachment. You might be better off starting with a known good setup. Can you adapt the G6/F40 master and clutch pedal to your W-body?

You would still need to make sure you have the pressure plate fingers in the proper postion of the HTOB range of motion.
kennn NOV 12, 04:02 PM
Guru, when you refer to the "spacer" that slips over the htob, are you referring to the spring-loaded face of the htob? Did you remove that on your build? Do you know what purpose it serves? I was reading on the mr2 forum that the proper relationship of the clutch fingers was to just touch that face. the 1/2" spring load is to take up the extension of the clutch fingers as the disk wears. Does this make any sense to you?

Ken

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'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

fieroguru NOV 12, 07:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by kennn:

Guru, when you refer to the "spacer" that slips over the htob, are you referring to the spring-loaded face of the htob? Did you remove that on your build? Do you know what purpose it serves? I was reading on the mr2 forum that the proper relationship of the clutch fingers was to just touch that face. the 1/2" spring load is to take up the extension of the clutch fingers as the disk wears. Does this make any sense to you?

Ken




My setup was properly designed (I designed my flywheel to match my clutch disk/pressure plate combo) so I have never needed to use a spacer on my car. Customers cars that used parts from others is where I learned about all the fun with spacers...

Spec sells a spacer that presses on the face of the HTOB (the face is the part of the HTOB that touches the pressure plate fingers). You can install a small shim between this spacer and the HTOB to effectively make the spacer thicker.

There is no set space/gap that is universal across all makes, models, and applications... it all depends on range of motion in the HTOB as well as the travel of the pressure plate fingers. 1/2" is way too much of a gap for clutch disk wear for the F40... use it and you will blow out the HTOB. 1/4" gap is much more ideal.

kennn NOV 26, 01:05 PM
Guru, when you refer to the "spacer" that slips over the htob, are you referring to the spring-loaded face of the htob? Did you remove that on your build? Do you know what purpose it serves? I was reading on the mr2 forum that the proper relationship of the clutch fingers was to just touch that face. the 1/2" spring load is to take up the extension of the clutch fingers as the disk wears. Does this make any sense to you?

Ken

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'88 Formula V6
'88 GT TPI V8

dnthmn87 DEC 27, 06:29 PM
The spacer I found was from ZZP and goes between the back of slave cylinder and the transmission. I made an addition spacer to go with that one to achieve a .21 air gap. I also added a bump stop to the pedal as I felt the travel was too far. Put it all back together and bled the pedal successfully without blowing out the slave(thankfully). Started the car and pushed the clutch pedal in and it makes a terrible vibrating/grinding sound! It makes the sound when its barely pushed in at all.... Brand new slave/throwout bearing. I'm about ready to set this car project on fire and claim the insurance money