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| Engine performance troubleshooting (Page 2/2) |
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countach711
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SEP 01, 08:15 PM
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Hey Boss, I had similar symptoms with my car and it turned out the vacuum line to the map sensor was unplugged. Very easy fix to a frustrating problem. If you're not familiar with it, it is located on the right side of the manifold and the vacuum line comes out the bottom and enters the manifold directly under the sensor where you cannot see it (but you can reach underneath and feel it). Verify there are no leaks and you might get lucky like I did!
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altownsend
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SEP 01, 10:19 PM
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Update on the no-start engine issue:
Today, Tuesday, September 1, 2020, the fuel pump relay is working. Perhaps, it dried out. I still plan to replace it with the new one that is coming.
Symptom: turn engine over and release the key, I hear the fuel pump activate. I have a fuel pressure gauge attached, and it clearly shows 45 PSI when the engine spins over, thus activating the fuel pump. the engine will not fire.
When I spray starting fluid in the front, small vacuum on the intake, or in the larger line on the opposite intake line (passenger side of engine) the engine will fire but will run for a couple of seconds then stall out. It will not fire again unless I spray more starting fluid into the intake.
Now, I removed the 'new' spark plugs and looked for signs. All but one of them was the same color (black soot), and that one had a small amount of soot, but the element was white as it was when installed new.
The distributor cap and rotor are new, wires are new, plugs are new, and the IAC and about four other sensors/switches for the engine are new. Engine was running until I washed it about three days ago.
Someone, please walk me through testing the ignition's electrical system to ensure that I learn that it either does or does not properly operate. I plan to purchase new spark plugs tomorrow. The ones that I have now do not even have 2 hours run time on them since new.
Please keep forwarding ideas about why the engine is not firing. One of them is going to be a fix.
So far, the fuel pump is activating as expected
Fuel pressure reading is at 45 PSI
Wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor are new
IAC, TPS, and other engine sensors are new
Battery has complete charge
I did confirm that the plug wires are in the correct firing order.
I need to learn how to check the ignition's electrical circuit to confirm proper operation
By the way, when I pulled the plugs, they were not wet with fuel, nor did they have a fuel scent
I think that I have either a fuel delivery issue of an electrical (ignition) issue
I plan to remove the fuel rail with injectors to see if they have debris in them.
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lou_dias
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SEP 02, 10:58 AM
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altownsend
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SEP 02, 01:18 PM
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I will check the fuel injector fuse to see if it is blown.
While looking at the link that you shared, I saw a photo of what I have another question about. Where does the vacuum line go to, or is terminated/connected to?
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fierofool
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SEP 02, 02:02 PM
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The vacuum line on the solenoid plugs onto a small metal line that's mounted on the front firewall. When you find it, you'll have another question (What's that big metal tube?). The big one was part of the fire recall. Rather than removing it, they just left it because the small EGR tube is attached to it.
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altownsend
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SEP 02, 02:15 PM
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Thanks for the explanation about the vacuum hose. I will look for where it goes and attach it. Now, I removed a large metal line. It did not have anything attached, so I took it off. Does it serve a purpose that I need to reinstall and terminate it to something?
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altownsend
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SEP 03, 08:29 AM
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Update:
On Wednesday, Sept 2, 2020, I went back out and assessed the project based on new recommendations here on Pennock's.
I removed the intake plenum to re-check vacuum. Everything related to vacuum was fine, with one exception that I am still working on. I removed the tube from both the EGR and the intake to check for carbon build up, and there was no build up. Both ends of the tube and where it is attached were free of carbon or obstructions.
I went to electrical/ignition. Removed the distributor cap and ensured that there was no visible damage or defect. None noted. Insured that sensors were properly mounted and connected.
I went into the car to remove and visually inspect fuses associate with the engine.
****Problem: I noted fuses 6 and 10, both V6 Fuel Injection circuit fuses were blown****
One member here commented about no fuel being on the plugs, suggesting that no fuel was being distributed via the injectors. So, blown fuses were a likely culprit. Both fuses are 5 Amp. Replaced them and the engine fired and is now running again.
I am back to a previous engine performance problem. Please comment.................................
The engine runs for about 10 minutes, no stalling, no variance in RPM. And then, all of a sudden, the idle slows, the engine stumbles a bit, and the engine eventually stalls. I have fresh gas, fuel filter is new, all devices are installed/mounted/tightened, and the engine still does this. It has done this for a while now. This started after I purchased the project.
Car revs fine when it is running
Idle is about 900 RPM when it is running
New Plugs (about 2 hours total running)
New wires, distributor cap, rotor, IAC, TPS, temp sensor, oil pressure switch, few other sensors replaced, fuel pump relay, new battery, about 6 months old
Again, the issue is that the engine will run fine, no load, and all of a sudden, the idle decreases, the engine stumbles, spits, backfires, and eventually stalls. Anyone have a fix?
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