Tire Question (Page 2/2)
fierosound JUL 11, 11:14 AM

quote
Originally posted by kendallville:

What gets me is the wear is even across the tire, not just inside or out.



Then you're running proper tire pressure and have a good alignment.
Nothing wrong with that.

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theogre JUL 11, 02:03 PM
Alignment on a machine often Do Not = Dynamic Alignment While Driving.
Machine Spec are setup for this issue normally and you shouldn't have a problem...
But...
Many iffy suspension parts or just 1 can make a car eat tires but still pass alignment on a machine.
Most "alignment shops" no longer look for bad suspension parts unless is very obvious or can't complete the work order.

People claiming eats rear tires, or fronts in FWD, are often cause by owners w/ lead foot problems.

Plus Don't check tire air regularly and rotate them doesn't help.
  • Cold Inflation for cars can charge ~ 1psi per 10°F for weather that week plus air leaks over time even w/o problems w/ tires and/or rims.
    Radial tires often Will Not have outside or inside wear shown in many "books" for inflation issues. Mostly that is "holdover" data from Bias Belt tires even then mostly w/o steel belts.
  • Most cars have 1 size tire front and back... but many tires have directional design... So only swap front/back on same side if you're not sure.
    Some directional tires have small arrows or weird shapes making hard to see for many people.
    Radials w/o Directional designs Can used X rotation methods but are harder for many people.

    Note: Many brands of rechargeable tools now have 1 to several tire inflators. Other have "cheap" portable compressors of whatever type...
    While easy and fairly cheap... Don't trust auto stop feature or even a gauge on them until you check w/ a good real gauge at minimum. Auto feature and gauge in them can be off 1 to 5 psi. Some ever more.
    My Ryobi unit even tells you the gauge isn't calibrated in the owner "book." That reads a bit higher then most gauges read at tire valve.
    The gauge etc maybe accurate but I believe the hose and/or quick release chuck doesn't play well w/ some or many tire valves.
    Still better then dragging out a long hose or 120v 3gal Compressor.

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    [This message has been edited by theogre (edited 07-11-2020).]

    • kendallville JUL 11, 03:56 PM
    How do I look for bad parts or would it be better to just replace all suspension parts?
    theogre JUL 13, 07:40 PM
    Finding iffy bushings etc can be hard because damage is often hard to see w/o taking things apart, using probes/mirrors or bore scope to feel/look at hidden areas, and so on.
    Outer shells can "rust out" on back/top you can't see easy. Once gone the rubber has nothing compressing it and moves every easy when driving.
    Even when bushing look ok, the rubber can "wear out" after many years.

    replace all is best for 20+ year old cars.
    Need tools etc to press out/in CA bushings etc.
    At minimum replace rear CA bushings since front tires are ok for now. Can likely do that w/o needing alignment right away.

    But if car has rust problems... can be a lot harder even w/ right tools.
    CA pivot bolts nuts and even the washer they have are Class 10.9 (Equiv to SAE Grade 8) or higher to handle the loads. If you heat or cut them you need New hardware too.
    Bolts often get stuck in bushing... Avoid heating the bolts. Cut rubber to see inner tube and See my Cave, Bushings and rest of section.
    Replace w/ Moog or other rubber is best for most people.
    kendallville JUL 14, 04:46 PM
    Thanks for the response .