Removing Front Rotors on 86GT (Page 2/2)
Mike in Sydney JUN 30, 05:52 AM
deleted. Duplicate post.

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 06-30-2020).]

Mike in Sydney JUN 30, 05:58 AM
If the is your only issue, I think you're being too particular. The rust on the disk face will go away after a drive and brake use. The rust on the wheel hub is minor and shouldn't affect anything. If it were mine, I'd put a blob of disk brake grease in the bearing cap, put the cap back on the hub and take a wire brush to the hub to knock off any loose rust, put the tire back on it and drive it.

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Mike in Sydney

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 06-30-2020).]

wftb JUN 30, 07:02 AM
I agree with Mike. You will likely get dirt in the bearings and have to wash all the old grease out and repack the bearings if you take it all apart.. Put the cap back on, clean it all up with a wire brush and give the hub a coat of paint is all I would do.

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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

theogre JUN 30, 08:09 AM
Clean that?
No point. That is very minor rust.
If installing new pads may need turning if new pads aren't same working area or rotor face has damage.
See my Cave, Brake Rotors Spec

Paint and other methods could make more issues because paint etc traps heat.
Maybe find a rust converter and only for the center hat area. You want something goes on thin. I forget what are thin to "paint" on. Don't remove rust until you read the product label. Many need some rust to work.

Get new seals at minimum Before try to take rear bearing out to repack. Very easy to wreck the seals.

Clean front and back w/ Brake Clean before you put pads on again is a must.
Brent7088 JUL 01, 04:50 AM
Thank you all for the information... yea, I'll just leave the rotor alone. Sometimes I tend to feel like I have to do more than what's needed while in the process of something unrelated. I did however watch the EricTheCarGuy video posted on another thread and learned how to work on those hubs once it's needed in the future - very informative.

I'll just wire brush/knock off the loose stuff and put it all back together once I get my tie rod and ball joint. I'm assuming I won't need to add any bearing grease to that hub since none was removed (looks pretty good).

Kudos again for the reassurance - saved me some time.